Wondering if you can figure this out and SAVE US !!
Some use 3-wire twist throttles on UART port…
we need the ADC. 3.3V and GND from a different port…because UART port is needed for bluetooth …
doesnt matter which one… which Im told would be a custom FW…
??
any ideas… thnx
Why aren’t people just using VM’s, eg virtualbox and a ubuntu image (both free and simple, and will work on Win and OSX no dramas)? If people can build their own skateboard, inc tune the VESC and load modified firmware, then it’s a walk in the park to spin up a VM and assign a USB port to it. Save’s the smart bloke doing the BLDC-tool mods from wasting time/ energy with OS conversions, which could instead go into more testing/ improvements. Just a thought.
3 Likes
I’ve got Windows box around, a vesc, an st-linkv2 for flashing, and a pair. I’ll give it a go. My base machine is Mac as well, so I can fiddle on that side too.
Finally got it running for windows and everything should work.
If anybody wants to test you can download the files here. Windows BLDC-Tool, Modified Firmware and Ubuntu BLDC-Tool
Here are some additional install instructions. Read them before please:
Be aware that this is only for Hardware Version 4.10 or above.
Important: When you upload the Firmware then do not read the settings of the VESC. Flash the Firmware directly. Otherwise this can cause trouble.
- Open the downloaded BLDC-Tool
- Upload the new Firmware which is attached to this email.
- Check the default values in the new BLDC Tool. When these are OK then you can use it. If the vaules are creazy then flash the firmware again.
- Adjust the settings of your VESC. I would not recommend to use a saved config. It would be better and safer to set the values manually. So you should make screenshots of your old setup or write it down.
But please be careful when you test it. I don’t want that anybody gets hurt.
If you have trouble then let me know. And i really would appreciate some feedback.
11 Likes
Did anybody give it a try yet? I did already around 500km on a single and dual drive with Watt Control Mode. All without issues. But i would like to know what other people think about it.
It’s terribly awesome !!! You rocks @Ackmaniac !
The feature I love the most is the center PPM parameter ! With custom mod, it’s so difficult to keep a symetric curve of the throttle. With your firmware, my dream come true !
I have a spare VESC, I’ll try this asap. 
Which Windows are you using?
had the same problem, googled for an hour and fixed it, some dll is missing:
Go to the folder ‘release’ where the .exe-file is and create a folder ‘platforms’ and put this file in there http://www.file-upload.net/download-12066170/qwindows.dll.html
hope this helps for now
(I’ve Win 10 64bit)
1 Like
lol, also found that out 10 seconds ago. But help is abslolutely welcome. Will update this to the file folder
Works like a charm!
I updated the File. Please download the Version from the link again and try it. Want to know that it is fixed.
It works for me, with the new dropbox files
worx for me too, going to test this out this weekend
I’m having some trouble understanding how this is different from current control. How exactly does it feel different from CC at high speeds, and how do you “have more control”? Does hold a certain throttle position correlate to a certain RPM? What does the value in “ramp by current mode” represent?It sounds interesting for sure, I just don’t understand the specifics.
Also you making want to fix the wording to “braking” instead of “breaking” in the tool and instructions 
At leats, that’s what I’m assuming you meant.
The problem with the Current Control is that at high speeds you loose throttle range. Should mean for the most settings you only have 50 or 60 % of the throttle range left. Everything above that (for example 70% throttle) does not lead to more power. I guess you also realized that at high speeds 50% throttle is the same as 80% throttle. So you only have the possibility to control the power from 0% till 50% throttle. That makes it harder to carve because it isn’t easy anymore to control the power. With the new Watt Control Mode 80% throttle is 80% of the power also at high speeds. So you feel more comfortable because you can control the power better. At the beginning it feels like the board has less power. But after some time you just learn that you need to push the throttle a bit more than before. And you start to love it when you like carving at higher speeds.
And ramp by current mode means that it ramps with the current mode until the power is reached that you define by the throttle. This ramps the power by current control till around 25% duty cylce. After that the watt control takes over. this way the motor starts softer at low speeds. I realized that problem when i had my board on the bench. Because when the max watt setting is at 1000 Watts. then 10% throttle means 100 watts. But when the board trys to reach 100 watts at around 5% duty cycle then it kicks in really hard because it needs to use nearly maximum current for the motor. So the motor start up is very hard. When you stand on the board and use a kick push then it should be OK but on the bench it feels too hard. So i decided to add this parameter to have a smoother startup which really makes it nicer and i strongly recommend it.
3 Likes
Hey guys using Ubuntu. @Ackmaniac Just uploaded the source in a zip file to his dropbox so that we can use it properly. Just download, extract, and install just like you install vedders BLDC_Tool.
That’s not entirely true though. Current control won’t “lose” power at higher throttle. It just ramps to max speed, which will depend on load compared to where in the throttle you reach it.
For example, i might reach full speed on flats with 30% throttle, in which 70% doesn’t do anything, but if we’re going up a slight incline it could take 60%throttle to ramp to full speed. You still have all the available power in CC mode, it just depends when it is that you fully overcome load.
Going up a steep incline you can feel a difference in power from 0 to 100% throttle.
That said, are you saying the the benefit of watt control is that you get more throttle range (not necessarily power) at high speeds compared to CC?
1 Like
Well, with wattage mode, lets say you have max 1000w, then throttle to 100% would try and push those 1000w.
Alright guys. So I’m like a new born baby when it comes to all this stuff so far. Just got my first e-board (Enertion Raptor) 6 days ago. How do I know the wattage of my board? Do I need to set anything specific in “Define Max Watt” when using this? Or just leave it default? Thanks for any help you guys can offer. If there’s anything else I need to know I’d greatly appreciate it.
