Evolve Carbon (Gen2, non GT) FOCBOX Upgrade

The battery on my old Evolve Carbon, not sure if it would be called Gen1 or Gen2, but it’t the non-GT version with the single large rear motor, is dying. The fundamental problem is that the BMS cuts power to the board as the battery voltage gets too low. It’s very annoying that Evolve designed this thing to not limit current to prevent the BMS cutout.

I pulled out the old ESC/Control system and replaced it with a FOCBOX and Nano-X controller. The increase in power/torque is mind blowing. Of course part of the reason for the torque increase is that no doubt I am running a much higher motor current than the original controller does. Does anyone know the approximate settings for the stock ESC? My new settings are 40A motor and 20A battery, the back wheel (pneumatic) can spin at low speed and the acceleration to top speed is probably twice as fast.

I am considering further increasing the motor/battery current because I don’t really mind if I break this motor. At the moment it is barely getting warm and previously it got hot. Maybe this is a function of FOC and better control algorithms wasting less power even though the board output is much higher.

Seriously considering building a dual motor setup for this thing now, new lease on life!

The other huge advantages

  • The BMS now never shuts down to protect the battery because the FOCBOX current limits and prevents the battery voltage getting low enough for that to happen.
  • Much better braking (to a complete stop)
  • FOC seems much quieter (faster, more efficient?)
  • Controller has longer throw, better feel.
  • Bluetooth monitoring of all ESC parameters like temperature, power etc.
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That’s awesome! I always wanted to through a VESC in one. The motor is one of the quietest so can only imagine how quiet it is in FOC

Post up some pics if you can

Hi, I’m very interested in this. I have an Evolve bamboo gen2 and I have the same SAG problems. Can you explain to me how you have replaced is ESC by the focbox? I would really appreciate it if you send me the photos and explain the process. Thank you!

I would just titrate motor amps off heat.

For reference: “To find out what current the motor uses I plugged a Watts Up meter (also with T plugs) in between and it ended up being a whopping 24A! and a constant load of about 12-15A to hold a speed of about 28Kmh. (it is a 350w motor after all)”

This project basically means getting a new BMS, motor controllers, on/off switch, remote and receiver. At least for the evolve carbon GT, the battery bms, remote, and stock motor controllers are proprietary and don’t tolerate any tinkering. You can only change the motors or the battery (requiring a bms transplant).

I might be wrong about the gen 2, but the gen 3 boards don’t like to be tinkered with unless you change everything. @psychotiller and @longhairedboy do battery swaps with bms exchanges if you are state side.

Not to self promote, but here is the unreliable shitshow that ensued after bumbling my own evolve battery exchange.

https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/diyvolve-quad-evolve-carbon-gt-evolve-supercarve-surfrodz-tpk-psychotiller-6369-200kv-x-4-unikboards-63mm-evolve-mounts-12s7p-30q-diebiems-focbox-x-2-fesc-6-6-x-2/71424?u=arzamenable

Thanks!

Unfortunately I live far away, in Spain. Then as I bought a 1 x Nano-X & Focbox Bundle I would need a bms and a power switch. Any recommendation? Is it easy to replace the bms of the original battery? many thanks!

Ignore what @Arzamenable said about the BMS, he has the GT and he is wrong about the Gen2.

To upgrade the Gen2, you only need to remove the ESC and remote receiver and replace those with a focbox and nano-x receiver. You do nothing with the BMS. The main feature you lose is the on/off switch. I have used an XT-60 connector and a loop-key. I did plan on adding an antispark switch but will be going dual motor with the Unity and so an additional switch is not required.

I will try to take the board apart later today and post some photos.

I’m not 100% sure what you are showing here, is this the difference in width between Gen2/GT trucks, and a modified Evolve (gen2?) truck adding a second motor mount?

This is essentially what I did, just kept ramping up the motor current based on temperature. I am currently running it at 50 motor amps and it stays cooler than it used to stock.

Two gen 2 AT trucks mashed into 1 for a dual setup sometime.

I sold my gen 2 bustin evolve awhile back. I assumed the bms situation was the same. Thanks for clearing up bump scoop. :+1:

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Thank you very much you two. I will then keep the bms. I would be very grateful if at some point you can send me pictures of the assembly, the connections and how you fixed the focbox to the case. I’m new to this, I’m reading a lot here, but I have not started yet. Would it also be possible for you to export the focbox configuration and send me a file or something?:+1::+1::+1:

Which on/off switch do you recommend?

This one looks very good https://lunacycle.com/remote-on-off-solid-state-switch/, but with the shipping is $60 …

I just found this one, what do you thing?

I think that im going to order this one

for the original bamboo battery gen2 and the focbox bundle, shallI order it with xt60 connectors on both ends? What fuse do i need?

Thanks!

Electricboardsolutions has also anti spark

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Hello @AlexBE can I ask you how you have connected the hallsensor of the Evolve engine to the entrance of the focbox?

The output of the sensors is through a 5-pin XH connector and the focbox input is a 6-pin JST PH 2mm.

Thanks!

The customer service there is really, really bad

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Hey, I actually just directly soldered the wires to the pins, not sure if the pinout even similar. I would use proper connectors but given this setup is temporary (until my Unity arrives), soldering was the fastest. I would suggest buying and crimping new connectors for a more permanent setup.

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Oh, beware the pinout label on the FOCBOX is not correct. On mine at least.

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Thanks, Is this the right one?

https://enertionboards.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000952453-Pin-map-on-motor-sensor-on-the-PCB-does-not-match-the-sticker

the engine has only 5 wires, I suppose they are 5v, GND, H1, h2 and h3, right?

Yes. Normally Red, black, and three colours for the hall sensors.

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