There also the 3 screws to the heatsink. I‘ll replace the spacer between the pcb and the heatsink and design a 3D printed plate for it to hold everything in place.
2 Likes
I think there is STL file to use for measurement. I think was based on the Escape. Maybe is useful
What you mean with it?
The Flipsky has a different size than the escapes.
Tried to get my Flipsky pcb in the left over heat sink from my escape but no way. 
Ah ok I never compared them but I thought they share it the same pcb. Never mind
Unfortunately not. The Flipsky is more wide
1 Like
Before I had a voltage meter in the separate spark switch output to see the battery voltage. Does somebody know where in the Flipsky esc I can connect the voltage meter to get the battery voltage?
As far as I know there is no separate port for it
Can’t you just wire the voltmeter behind your switch?
Yes. I know that there is no port for that. I’m using the built in spark switch. I measured that the switch terminals have only 12V.
Guys I am at the time to decide whether use the built in anti sparks. I was wondering is someone using it on regular base? In case of dual vescs, did you use a 24V switch and wired to receive 12V from each vesc or you cut on the 12V wire? To me it should work as well. Thx!
I’m using it for 4 vesc, bought this pre-wired from flipsky and it can take up to 50 volt. But have extended the wires because they was to short. They already put a resistor in it. Havnt tested alot, just a little and it works
1 Like
ok good. I may give it a try since i am out of space with the two Vesc 6.6 in the enclosure.
Hi man, sorry to call back this question, but I was making the push button. I followed you diagram and the one on Flipsky website .
I used a 2KOhm resistor since I am going dual vesc and a 24V latching type button.
I see that on the Flipsky diagram the C and negative are connected, whiel I do not see it in the picture you posted above.
Here my wiring. Do you think is correct?
Moreover I used a button that holds the position once you press it. Is it correct or should be on thst always came back to the original position?
I’m pretty sure it needs to be a latching type switch. Monitary only makes contact when you push it. Self latching push button stay in contact.
1 Like
Ok perfect so It’s correct what I used. Could you please check the wiring? Because then I think I need to remove the blu wire thst connects C and - since they will be connected when the button is pressed. Is it right? They could post a more clear drawing on the website Thanks
This is basically all the same switch just different size and manufacture. They wire them the same for their anti spark switch.
2 Likes
Thanks man. ah ok there is physical connection between C and -. Perfect then I did correctly. I will test them and let you know. Thanks!
Same situation here. Did you find a pin on the vesc that does the trick?
I think this will work:
Negative to the green and positive to the red
1 Like
Cool! I was also thinking that my voltmeter is a bit programmable so it turns off after 10sec, so actually I don’t think it uses any current even if left it on all th time since you have to press to resume it.
Hi guys since you all have the single FESC 6.6. I am having trouble with brakes. Could you please check the thread and tell me if you see something odd. Appreciate! https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/almost-no-brakes-in-foc-12s3p-30q-battery-flipsky-6-6-meepo-hubmotors-style/72170