We are all parting these with vescs.
So get them and join us 
Ok, I’m in for one set, I’ll pm you later, just wanted people to knowthe groupbuy isnt dead
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Great! Thx for your support 
I’m not joining. sorry guys.
5 to go! I hope someone wanna do shopping over the weekend:wink:…
Since I created that thread, I’ve learned a bit more about controlling the heat of small hub motors. The real key it to limit watts. You can do this by calculating your max watts (max amps x average voltage) or use watt control mode with a watt limit. My problem is simply I want more torque than small hubs can do. I’ve found 5000-6000 watts con is a nice amount. I split that by 4 and I get 1250-1500 watts con per motor. I’ve been the only one testing Hummies v4 motors and my results have been great. Simply doubling the stator size, doubling the magnet size, and increasing the copper by 1.6 times has resulted in great acceleration with no over heating issues. When I tried to pump 1000 watts with those small motors, they cooked very quickly. Probably more like 500 watt motors. Run them at that, and they won’t over heat like I experienced. But the acceleration is so weak, even in 4wd, at 500 watts. So you can chose weak acceleration with small motors or good acceleration with bigger motors. Having larger magnets and stator and more copper also means lower resistance, which means less heat, which results in better efficiency. I’m depends on your riding style, but I ride with cars. They don’t pass me because I accelerate at the same rate as them and can go the same speeds as them (as long as the speed limit is under 35 mph). Hummies new wind has cut the resistance in half again, so the v5s will be supper efficient and can run high amps to give you great torque. We should have the first assembled v5 motor tonight and I hope to have 4 of them running by the end of next week at the latest with my new hollow core deck. Super exciting times!
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Great thanks for the explanations. So if I understood correctly let’s take my setup. I will run 10s3p 30Q battery (rated 15A or 20A actually from real discharge test) total costant current 45 or 60A, we can say 50A as deal, so 37V * 50A = 1850W /2 = 925W available for each motor. Since the motor are rated costant 500W and 1000W peak they will stay cool only when they run < 500W. Is it a correct thinking? Thx for your input.
There’s a few ways to look at it. That will ensure you don’t cook them, yes. But you might be able to set them to 750w even.
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So basically we can start from 500W and than go higher and keep an eye on the motor temperature to see if they overheat when they reach the max watt set. If no we can increase a bit the max W until we find a sweet spot between temp/performance. Could it be an idea?
Yea, I was thinking of suggesting that to you this earlier in the morning today, haha.
It doesn’t still mean things can’t break. Heat and slipping wheels are small hubs biggest problems. But if they do a sloppy job gluing magnets, or use the wrong epoxy for gluing the magnets or the damaged the winding in the motor assembly process, fixed it, and their fix failed, theirs still a lot that can go wrong. To be able to have tight control of the assembly enviroment is one of the reasons hummie and I chose to wind and assemble our hub motors ourselves.
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Yeh your hub motors are very nice. I need to start cheaper for the moment 
but they are for sure on my list.
Thank you for all the advice.
just can’t wait to see how they perform and try hard them this summer. While we are there - quick off topic - do you still think you will make bigger wheels with front matching or is it something hard to pull out at your scale ? More urethane with hubs is always a good bonus
On the Meepo hub note I have used them for approx 4 month now and using them at 50A and i don’t get any unbearable heat. I mean the carvon V3 heats much more under same hills, but carvon would have more power and will go faster for sure. I wish they had temp sensor ( meepo’s ) so I could have numbers. Carvons get really hot up to 93 degrees celcius ( see there : https://metr.at/r/0o1nJ )
I had one refund, so 4 Places are taken at the moment - 6 more orders to go!
If someone is interested in the timeline: Should be about one week from china to customs, 2 days at customs, i will ship them as soon as i get them, so about another week to your door.
Jump in guys to make this happen and help us get a nice deal on these!
I am really interested in these Hub motors but I have a question:
If the Urethane needs to be replaced, I need to buy a replacement with the Rotor inside? So I can not replace only the Urethane on this Motor? …
And where do I get these cheap?. I would rather order this Hub motors including a replacement kit for the urethane. Thats the only thing which is keeping me from placing my order!
Thanks for your effort to get such a good offer! Greetings from Germany Ron
Hey Ron!
Sure, jump onboard
These hubs should probably last a good amount of a few hundred kilometers - i haven´t actually see someone replacing it. If you need to replace them on some point in the future, there are some vendors selling replacement kits including the bell and everything you need like:
https://verrealboards.com/products/replaceable-hub-motor-urethanes
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Thanks for the tip. So this groupbuy can not include a set of spare urethane replacement Rotor?
Shouldn’t it be possible to get the urethane off of the rotor and cast and bond/glue a new one over the rotor?
I am building a compact 10s3P cruiser Build under the Jucker Hawaii Mini cruiser Board: https://www.juckerhawaii.com/JUCKER-HAWAII-mini-cruiser-WOODY-BOARD-KAPUA
So with the Small space under the deck I would prefer to go with hubs. It would be my every day commute board.
So your groupbuy offer comes perfect, but the thing with the non, replaceable urethane over the rotor keeps me back from ordering. Could you give me a day to think it through?
The seller we’re buying from does not offer replacable cans, you have to get them from somewhere else.
Sure, take your time and let me know, we’re waiting for a few more orders to come in to proceed.
I exchanged some emails with Jason and he kindly provide the information we needed about the sensor wire…
As you can see the ground is black, the 5V is red and the other 3 are the all sensored wire. On the VESC you will find 6 pins instead of 5, so you have to leave it one empty since the temperature sensor is missing on this motor. The same information will be updated on the website too. 
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