8-50V input 12V1.5A or 12V3A version available, nothing to adjust just plug and play There are 5V output versions too
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Transformer-Inverter-Automotive/dp/B01739WR7O/
8-50V input 12V1.5A or 12V3A version available, nothing to adjust just plug and play There are 5V output versions too
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Transformer-Inverter-Automotive/dp/B01739WR7O/
You put the multimeter in series in the circuit in amps mode and power flows through it, they will have a rated max amps on the multimeter but usually fused so if you go over you just have to replace a fuse (too much and Iāve heard they can blow in your hands but shouldnāt be an issue here). The Watts is just volts*amps so if you have two meters you can get that accurately if not you can measure no load voltage then multiply the amps you measure by volts to tell you watts. For a given component (LED in this case) you can measure the voltage drop from one side of the component to the other and multiply by the amperage to know the watts. Example say you have 500mA at 5V thatās 2.5W (0.5A * 5V = 2.5W)
I always fall back on this:
The wires to this one above and mine require such small wires, will that limit battery flow or circuitrestricti? It seems restricting
The wires it comes with do 12V3A without issue If length is the issue,extend them
Installed 5 of these last week,3x12, 2x5 on 4 client builds, no problems yet
I mean the power wires running my 12 guage through this unit seems limiting
I donāt understand what you mean by limitingā¦
Do you think I could solder 12 guage to them in series and be ok? Doesnāt seem like it, but great product! Iām going to buy it!
Oh, yeah you can soldering anything equal or thicker than whatās on there, i used 14 gauge for extensions
How to wire up a voltage regulator like that u posted?
one end to battery the other end to what you are powering
I bought a 3 LED version which lasted one night, and then I got the 2 LED version which lasted about 10 minutes. There is a coil inside that is free floating above the circuit board. On the 3 LED version it looks like it shorted out a little chip at R2. On the two LED version the coil fell off the solder points. I will try soldering it back on. I think it needs some big gobs of silicone to prevent the coil from moving around.
We use these lights and they have been great! Sorry to hear about the short.
Thanks @psychotiller . Do your lights have the same coil inside? If so do you support it in some way?
Maybe I have exceptionally shitty roads, or exceptionally shitty luck.
We have done a couple of custom set ups. We donāt stock them or sell them on my site.
I really liked them. They were bright like headlights! Really good road visibility. Iām not looking for lights to be seen, thatās easy. Iām looking for lights to see the road. I might make something that mounts on me instead.
Even with my 7Ā±watt oncoming-traffic-blinder headlights, I still carry a good LED flashlight in my non-remote hand for night riding. Itās hard to get good road illumination when your light source is only 4 inches off the ground.
Yes, the low angle accentuates the cracks and fails to reach far enough ahead. On top of deck is a little better. It is slick having it all under the board but not the best angle for down road illumination at speed.
Got my lights working need to fit them