My new rear light design, still need to paint, wire up all LED’s and fill the cavity with clear resin
Maybe I will sand the lens to give a frosted fell and improve visibility in daylight
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siiickk!
Would you mind posting which leds you used? I’ve been trying to do the same thing but have been unsuccessful in my search of bright leds
They are WS2812, you can find them very cheap in China, I bought 100 of them for $10,00
They are RGB and individually addressable, so you can’t just feed 5v and hope if lights up, an arduino or similar micro controller is required to make them work, even the VESC can control them
Are you planing to make them work when breaks are applied? that would be cool, not sure how to connect them to vesc/ remote
Yep, exactly that, this is my second version of the light itself, but the code to run everything is already working, I’ve used the it on my previous board for more than a year and hundreds for kilometers
It’s easy to implement because I use the arduino itself as my receiver, but even if you use the GT2B or any other PPM receiver you can connect and arduino to the UART on VESC and use the current data to determine if you are braking or not
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Ohh thats cool! I’m already using Bluetooth module ( metr app) via UART. Any chance of splitting the signal or " listening on" ?
Unfortunately UART is not a BUS as far as i know, so you can only have two devices, but you can give a try to the VESC firmware with ws2812 support, i never used it, but its supposed to work right out of the box, maybe you have to change how many LED’s are connected, but them you would have to recompile it
Thanks!
I think what you’re doing ( 3d printing enclosure for front and back lights) is the way forward. This way they are very secure, wont rattle or come off, and it is a customisable cheap solution. They might not look amazing ( PLA/ABS quality) but they could be printed in resin 
I might design my own, as so far I haven’t been able to find any cheap substitute to Shredlights that works. Also not having to change batteries/ charge them is additional advantage.
Due to vibrations I’ve managed to kill these lights within 30 minutes of riding. Same with many LED fashlights. But the only ones I was trying were thouse using AA batteries. Maybe the ones with USB chargeport work better.
About one hour, and no problems. Time will tell
Yeah, the quality is not so much of a problem, people tend to treat printed parts as finished, but that is not true if you really want a quality looking, at least in hobbyists level prints
If you take the time to prime sand and paint you can’t tell that the piece was printed
One future step is to send my enclosure, that is also 3d printed to Shapeways, they can print it in one piece in SLS, with should give a way better result
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Thunderbolts are the de facto esk8 standard lights, period.
Well that’s true, bit of sanding and paint goes long way. Are you planing to release file on thingiverse?
Sure
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Does anyone know how to wire this up to a secondary switch (from the receiver), I know my secondary channel; is working since there is a led which flashes when I press the remote but obviously need to step down the voltage and use one of these meanwell dohickys, not sure if they need a cmd issue via dim pin…ugggh no idea
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I burned this out I put 5v it only takes 4.7 I have new ones coming in
I can’t believe how bright this Cree light is. The enclosure is a perfect fit. Thanks for hooking me up @psychotiller you rock man. I can’t wait to get it installed.
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