When building the Raptor completes I realised screwing 6 bolts into each wheel to mount the wheel pulley really sux! Doing one or two wheels isn’t too bad, doing 50 takes forever. see.
The normal installation has many steps: slightly drill out the wheel core, partially insert the bolts one-by-one, keep checking the pulley is seated, further tighten the bolts, check that everything is concentric, put thread locker on each bolt!~
So I designed a new wheel pulley, its injection molded using a composite of nylon and glass fiber.
This is the final product! All enertion Kits will come with this now.
BENEFITS OF NEW DESIGN.1. Super fast, fool proof installation2. Works with Enertion PowerWheels & ABEC Flywheels3. Much cheaper to manufacture, Mounting kit price reduction now possible.4. Half the weight of Aluminium Pulley.5. Integrated Flange Bearing Guarantees perfect alignment & Minimizes load on wheel bearings.6. No screwing bolts! No Tools needed!
Does it need to have a slightly longer axle to fit the extra bearing?
I’ve got some abec pulleys I bout and am now selling that are very similar to those. They were intended to have a slightly longer axle I guess lathed but from what I read they sit where they should if u omit the bearing and just rely on the mount or belt tension. Never tried them though. Definitely an improvement in design!
Unfortunately, the axle of a normal truck doesn’t have room for a wheel and the extra bearing inside the pulley. You need to remove 7mm from the hanger. Or just buy trucks from enertion that come with the correct axle length.
I also think you can modify a normal truck hanger quicker with a hacksaw & file than you can screw 6 bolts into the wheel & aluminum pulley.
that’s my biggest concern too- I guess though since you can buy like three of these for the price of one aluminum one, it wouldn’t be horrible to replace.
This is awesome! When can we expect these, and about how much per pulley?
The concept of a bearing in the pulley seems to make it just plug-and-play, which is great
for what its worth @trbt555@cmatson I find that after hundreds of kilometers its the smaller motor pulley that tends to wear most.
I guess only time will tell.
My current recommendation is steel for the motor pulley and glass reinforced nylon for the wheel pulley.
I tend to think aluminium is just a bit soft, it eventually wears out. definitely no aluminium for the motor pulley as it has 3 to 4 times the amount of belt contact per tooth when compared with wheel pulley.
Nylon is extremely abrasive resistant especially with glass fibres
That should help mitigate at least some damage from the wheel pulley rubbing on the motor mount’s length adjustment bolts in the event that the mount shakes loose. I’ve seen pretty severe gouging when that happens, especially when there’s any sort of wobble in the wheel pulley. I’ve got some on my bench right now that look like somebody took a grinder to them.
On the really off chance that I can find calibers with longer axles, whats the axle length needed here? I notice you have 12mm and 9mm wide, any plans for 15mm? Its overkill, but on a 12t to 36t overkill is def advised IMHO.
EDIT: I see in another post that the 15mm wide pulley would cause too many problems, between having to get a longer axle and the space lost to put the motor mount itself it seems at this time its unfeasible to get this out of a injection molded setup.
Yeah I figured I wouldnt be able to find any lol If you have them custom made, would you consider offering any other colors up than blue? I am making a blue themed build next, but after that is the red/orange one.