Okay, so relative to each other the parallel groups are good.
Yeah, that’s what I do to check if cells are original or not, charge them to full and discharge them to 3.1 volts or so and check the total mAh discharged.
Also I would suggest to raise the pressure to 50PSI and do your range test?
At 50psi the range calculates to 31 miles which is on the low end of acceptable. It should probably be closer to 35-37
Ah, so the pressure did improve the range! I wonder if that’s the difference you are going to get because you might be comparing your range to people who use 70psi tires?
Maybe. 28wh/mile seems to be in the right range.
Around the 25Wh/Mi range is good for pneumatics, have seen people getting that on thane
Edit: this thread will be helpful
I had completely forgotten about the thread. 
the circle is complete
I would check cells total capacity and then energy drawn while riding…
Otherwise good discussion 
Lol, I didn’t even notice
I get 25wh on moderately flat areas with some small hills on my mountainboard. I keep my air on between 45-50PSI ( the max psi on the MBS Fiverstar hubs is 50psi). My board is belt driven.
Can confirm this values for my dual mtb too. Same psi same average kwh per km
We have calculated resistance as i don’t have equipment to measure. Our math gave us resistance of 0.622mOhms per 6P module @ 100% SOC
Well I dont mean that every module will be with bad resistance don’t forget its assembly yourself kit there is many variables in formula which can influence it 
If you have a thermal camera, you can probably have a 4S setup(just to show a few modules in series), draw 100A from the whole system and show the temperature reading of the hot points. It might dispel some misconception people might have regarding these modules.
I have compression foam to account for any tolerances that might exist on 3d printed part <300um and then there is not much that can influence resistance “hugely” as you put. I have tested compression forces at various temps and they are significant compared to what you might think, say remote controller and spring type. I can guaranty that resistance will be lower than any spotwelded module of the same size and I dont guaranty stuff easily.
I don’t need that. Thermal camera is a thermometer. I have measured temps soon after test and if you saw Jehu Garcia’s powerwall modules they pulled and tested where conections were glowing, you would see quiet opposite in NESE modules. Cells would glow and tabs would not. I had plans on getting cheap thermos cam but bought tires for my car instead Bugger
I still might get it for the winter. Its a good visual tool.
None of this matters under heavy vibration and banging around, which is exactly the conditions it will be in. Before hitting a puddle of brine…
I’ll take welded or soldered any day
It does. Here is a graph of sensor data. Compression force, temperature and acceleration in both directions on my vibration stand. If you will experience those vibrations on your board for the time of discharge, you would look like having Parkinson’s:
If you’re so sure, you should send some to a forum member and let them put 500 miles on it and write an unbiased public review of it. Electric longboards have a funny way of breaking things.
Also, you do look like that after a 20 mile ride. Just so we’re clear.
