Hmm interesting. The remote is running off ~2 - 3v. I tried making a voltage divider, but it just oscillates on and off. Also tried a tiny buck converted, but it wouldn’t turn on. I’m afraid to run anything above 3v.
Anyone done any progress on this? @jackw @mmaner @saul @okp
I just received 3 mini remotes and some 1s 800mah lipos and I have one of the remotes disassembled in front of me. Currently watching a bit of Fusion360 tutorials and playing around, but 3D-modelling isn’t really my forte to say the least.
I do have one full spool of PLA filament that I’m more than willing to use to do some test prints with if you have something close to completed.
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I just sold my mini remote. The waiting was killing me. I also have a nano x and a gtb mod for now. I will totally buy one though when they are done and grab another mini to mod.
Yeh @mmaner how is the work on mini remote going?
I actually found one person who would be very interested to get a reliable / working mini remote but with thumb wheel… just like your 3d model.
I know you released 3d files somewhere… is the 3d model also buried there?
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I’ve been busy at work, had a couple of other model I’ve concentrating on. I plan on getting back on this at the first of the week.
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@mmaner Glad to hear. I just found out you are the only one(?) working on this one!
I thought someone else also had this idea in my mind but you were the only one I found…
@lilracerboi looks like has something but is it for GT2B?
so yeh, @mmaner keep up the good work, I think if the design is finalized, a lot of people could actually use it, at least I would definately love to try it, as Im having one extra remote to do some testing on.
My prototype remote is on the works, I’ll post pictures soon.
The only inconvenience I’m getting is I have only space for 1 AA battery instead of 2, but the circuit is supposed to be powered by 6.6V not 3.3V, is there a way around this?
Voltage booster or just choose 2 smaller lipo batteries, not one AA
Just use a 14500 Li-ion. Same size as a AA and same voltage as an 18650.
how can you do 6.6 with two AA batteries that only have a nominal voltage of 1.5V?
@Maxid I think he is using arduino or somethign with regulator which needs 5v or more.
There was space for 2AA at beginning but not anymore 
but yeh he could have explained it all a bit better
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ah thanks - that makes sense. but even with a single lipo it will only be 4.2V - so that won’t work.
yeh, it sounds problematic.
@will_manners proposed 14500 sized li-ion, but yes, he would still need 2 of them, but the direction is a bit good, since there are smaller format li-ions available, they just cost more and could be easly stacked to make 2S config.
If it is for arduino, then I think he can go up till 12v, since regulator does the rest. So there shouldnt be problems with 8.4v for that matter.
I’m sorry, my mistake. Each cell has 1.5V so the voltage needed is 3V, I’ll use just one 14500 battery for 3.7V nominal.
Report how it goes. Im really curious can a ‘direct’ replacement be made for switching out 2xAA batteries to 1x Lipo/li-ion one.
yeh I did think you had some more circuits in there, since u mentioned prototype.
No, I’m just doing a case for the electronics of the Mini Remote for direct swap.
You should theoretically be able to use any size, combination or chemistry as long as it falls within the voltage range for the remote it should be fine. (Note: it goes without saying that I’m assuming if someone is using multiple batteries that the chemistry and capacity are identical for each cell).
Only issue I can think of is that now you have a different end-voltage when the battery is completely discharged but the remote won’t account for the different chemistry and will continually discharge a Li-ion, it might be best to use a protected Li-ion cell.
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Yes, I have found the cutoff voltage on the Mini Remote to be somewhat in the 2V range, a 14500 cell has 3.7V nominal voltage, this cell would be continuosly discharged down to 2V, so the cell would be screwed after the first full use.
That’s why you use a protected cell, ie, one with a built-in protection pcb to protect against over discharge.
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Or integrate at least some sort of indicator to check it out. Bms might cut off voltage abruptly.