I added nuts with loctite to mine and haven’t had any issues since, I don’t think the rods would have dislodged in the 1st place if I hadnt gotten the motors hot.
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how much for 4 total 107mm hub motors and without trucks or anything i’m strapped after getting 4xFocbox controllers $684, tiny bms 150a 750a/600a bt usb silicone wiring 295.99
It will be several more weeks before I get around to making these again. I will notify you. The sets are $99 so 4 wheels is 200.
Yes the photo is taken with too less light… So the camera made no good quality… Here is a better pic from a new version of my Airless-Allterrain-Wheels which prevents damage by vibrations to the motor wirings.
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The Photo could be misunderstood so I deleted it. But it is no fake. At this time I experimented with different winding types (and different copper qualities, diameters) to get more speed from the motors…
In fact I have black powder in my storage to make black wheels too. I send a picture when I got one in black
Thanks for joining us. Looks like a great option for many customers. It woukd be great to see an actual mph and power consumption video like i did at 28 mph.
When you ride 500 miles on that 3d print core it will become a bunch of little pieces. Cracks and lossening around the plastic core will start at 150 miles approx.
Keep us tuned on your efforts and progress, you may centainly serve our community members get better wheels for their motors.
Which fill grade do you have printed the core? And which material did you use? I uses PLA and fill 100 percent and had such a problem not. I very been driven one year with them and had no problem. On ABS I had a problem because this filament is not so good for PU. It lose the connection very soon because of low surface energy. It is a glue problem of the ABS. But for the negative Form ABS is good but I use there PLA too but with a Form Spray. I also increase the connection with vacuum. So the PU is pressed into the PLA. And you have no bubbles in the PU. Vacuum is crucial necessary for the wheels and the quality. I try to find a manufacturer for this wheels but I had to order a very large quantity and that is the problem actual. So I only can produce a small quantity at the moment in my tiny garage 
I can send you some if you are interested in it
Ok, pla starts to deform at 110F and the motor gets to 130 F really easily. I dont understand how it is possible to not melt the pla core with extended use.
Polycarbonate is more structurally resistent and heat resistant and it failed on me after several hundred miles.
I cant test them since i moved and left my board behind but im sure others on the forum would like to test them.
Thanks
Yes that is right. I have a modified motor and truck connection that uses the truck as a heatsink. The surface is very large to transport the heat better to the truck. See attached photo. And I uses for me 4 wheel drive so that I get really quickly enough speed. At the low RPM the motor gets faster warm by current as by higher RPM. At higher RPM you have more like the AC than DC values of max current. So that is the reason why some manufacturers of in wheel boards reduces the current limit at low RPM. But there is a little tip to get more heat disperse to the truck by using the normal Jacob motor: verify that the gap between the motor and truck is absolutely clean and tight. The holes from drilling the torque bolts can cause a large gap e. G. Or the truck is not manufactured clean so that there is a little bit too much aluminum at the shaft… And you must put cooling paste like arctic silver on the shaft and between the truck and motor connection. And the alignments crew is to be secured with locktite! When this screw lose then the motor will be very soon too warm.
But is is real recommend to use 4 motors that brings very much… Then the motors will stay cool and you have real fun with it. Hillclimbing is no problem anymore. Even when you are heavy like me.
The PLA can handle this temperatures then. Maybe it depends on the PU resin manufacturer too. From which manufacturer do you have ordered the PU?
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I have a modified motor and truck connection that uses the truck as a heatsink.
I’d be curious to see some thermal imaging of that.
Thermal imaging not a photo.
Hey mate, how is Florida? OK so after using the wheels in my secondary board for a few weeks I can report a few things. The diameter of the wheels is awesome and the motors seem to handle it without issue, they even feel more powerful than before somehow. The urethane is super hard, but that’s OK I don’t mind it too much if that means they will last forever. What worries me is that the rods are sticking out on the side by about 2mm, is that necessary? I find it impossible to completely avoid any side contact with a curb, sooner or later it will happen. And it did happen to me the other day, causing one of the rods to slightly bend. So to avoid worse happening in the future I was considering to try and cut off those ends that are sticking out, do you see any problems with that? Why are the sticking out in the first place?
Ok good to hear that. The rods stick out 2mm because thats thebonly way i can keep them in place during casting. You can cut them off with a grinder cut off wheel. Dont take more than 5 sec per rod so they dont overheat. You can also add a plate to the outer surface for additional lateral protection. Keep us posted and ride safe!
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Cut them off, took me 5 min using one off those cheap metal saws. I like the new clean look and feel more comfortable now not having to worry about bumping into stuff. The quality of these wheels is awesome, they are quite hard but they also seem indestructible.
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Good glad things are working out! Enjoy them. For those worried about me I appreciate your concerns in the wake of Irma. Fortunatly nothing devastating took place and I am ok. Thanks and be safe!
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