Wow, they are so finely machined it is a real effort to slide the caps off. There’s some real precision there in how the parts fit together.
Inspected the magnets and wirings and all seems in order. Going to add some extra heat shrink to the phase wires and will apply the double sided tape to the hub barrel to try and stop the slipping issue. If that doesn’t work, I’ll look at putting in the additional ridges between the ‘nubs’.
Did you get a refund?
hmm, I dont like how the phase wires are loosely wound around the stator there. just looks like it would rub the enamel off and short out very soon. is that meant to be like that @jacobbloy ?
i would probably coat the exit phase wires in something sturdy 
At some point, I’ll do a simulation and see if we can rewind the motors to better deal with heat.
Currently many strands of 0.19mm wire. I’ll see how many strands of 18ga we can fit for torque.
That’s how I protect the phases going to the VESCs. Also I gave an extra heatshrink tube to the place where the phases come out of the motor.
an easy test is on the bldc tool checking the resistance and inductance. the vesc is super accurate with those. maybe dribble some high heat epoxy on the wires as they dont look to have anything holding them in the motor
Has anyone shipped the motors back to Jacob in Australia. I got quote from usps for $85 shipping. What company ships cheaper?
Can you give me the weight and dimension of the package? I’m thinking of returning it too, and I’m trying to use this website called “ShipGooder” to compare prices.
The box that they come in is 14 x 11.5 x 4.5 inches. And the weight I think is 8.5lbs
Idk if I’ll ship the box in another box or probably a shipping bag
USPS came out to be the cheapest for me at $88.
Try ship2anywhere
Guys i’ve been trying a new pair of these jacob motors with the dual setup and they are good.
If you use them as is out of the box I can’t say they will work good since even with the dual setup i experience the urethane slip. I quick fix is removing one of the caps and using a high temp structural grade epoxy on the surface between the motor and the urethane. Using retaining fluid on the aluminum where it meets the motor and bearing also helps keep it tight together.
The motor wire outputs will crack off the place where they are soldered into the banana plug. Better heat shrink and a dab of epoxy fixes it nicely.
Hopefully we see some upgrades in this design in the future and larger diameter urethane.
put epoxy there where the wire leaves the solder and youll be good
Dang are those thin aluminum wires? Literally the worst wires for a high amperage motor.
Apparently Land wheel has the same motor design or manufacturer and the wires melt.
they are not aluminium - they are basically the same copper strands as inside the motor but tinned to make soldering possible. awkwardly thin though - I agree on that.
i wonder why they did that? to save money or to prevent desoldering of the wire where it transitions from the stands to actual high amperage wires.
The insulation is pretty lame as well. Looks like they slipped a long loose peiece of heatshrink all the way down and into the motor.
It is not like it makes a difference. Look at the length of the strands inside the motor - the little piece that comes out of it is so small that any loss due to higher resistance is negligible. SK3 motors have the same principle - but use thicker wire for the windings so the cables sticking out are also thicker.
Also your heat shrink theory: that is exactly what they did and also the reason why you can still pinch them.
So do you think if the wiring issue is resolved and the slipping urethane people will regain confidence in this great design Jacob made for us?
I’m willing to invest in a couple sets and resolve the issues and sell them for testing purposes to members that would be interested In helping restore confideof the community in this design.
I’m glad that I got slightly used hubs. After modifications (post #514 and #533) I ride them with a drop through deck and till now no problems. But I used them just a few battery charges. They have torque as hell.
Still, my only issue is the slipping and squeaking urethane. Other than that, they have worked fine for me and have good torque, and decent top speed on 12s ~25mph. I tried the double sided scotch tape and the urethane doesn’t seem to slip as much, but they squeak like crazy as the urethane shifts on the tape. I like @yaca’s inserts and will probably try those next, but hold them down by wrapping a layer of gorilla tape across them and around the Hub. I’d still like to be able to remove the urethane without destroying it since I got the second replacement set in another color.
What other fixes have been working for you guys?
