So wait I’m not sure if i understand right, you allready made that expereince, or is it theory ?
would your 6374 Motor alo have such strong regen-brake ? or is it because of the Leo ?
PS.: your package arrived, juuuuh “sadly” I’m going on vacation tomorrow, so my direct-drive project has to wait a bit longer, still,… thanks allready… looks like fun
Not theory… real world (-; Sounds logic too IMO, once the wheel stopped the Vesc says OKAY start spinning backward is okay This can happens on loose terrain by full brake …
Its nothing i´m worried about… just wanna share it… for what i should need RESERVE on MTB really ? You got Bindings, do a 180…
Nice that you got the Parts Dude … Let me know if i can help ya anytime
It is a little disappointing hearing about reverse actually. All the time Benjamin has spent “banging” on the vesc tool. Well in ackmaniacs bldc firmware you can program reverse like hobbywing where you have to double tap the brake but in addition you can program the speed for direction change so you cannot have one wheel spinning in reverse at 15mph (as easily.)
So I wonder if anything has changed in duty cycle from the previous version where there was no neutral. If you have a chance can you test this mode.
Oh Ok Dude i have to say i just played around…
it was not my goal to archive this reverse stuff in total, just for fun…
what i wanna say, thats maybe easily to archive your goals if you know what ya do
i never know 
How big of a jump/difference in performance is it going from 6374 to 8072? Mostly wondering about the difference on hills (up and down/braking), but also in acceleration and anything else you’ve observed.
I dont think thats a big difference in the end… You get a cooler running setups on high amps… positive if you live in hot/hilly areas and if you are a heavy rider… Mainly i done for science, but in the end i like it alot… badass
MAchined another lid for my Vesc enclosure, Mr Maa a buddy from mine working on a Logo and this was an first attempt :
Let me know what ya think
Short evening run with metr.at app
Only logging one Vesc, dont know if it possible to calculate both… ?!
Working on implementing some sensors into my setup.
@squad mentioned in the beginning of this tread it would be really nice to have… i thought i would have to install “halls” and was afraid of this …
@Duffman letting me know about this AS5047 and supporting me alot with pictures and instructions to get things running on the workbench … thx bro
@JTAG was the first i know on this forum who has done this… nice work!
Here is nowind´s high professional teststand :
The clue is really to working with shieldet wires… first tests with unshieldet ones gives me a lot of noise and no good detection… with shield i´m getting a super clear signal :
Latenight hunting for nice wire endet up with old nunchuk controller… super flexible wire, shieldet and right amount of stands :
Crimping this 2mm bastards is really one of my absolute nightmare job …
Anyway now i have to find a nice solution to putting them into/onto the gearbox
Cheers
haha, yes! 
Do you have one of these? Makes quick work of them for me.
Iwiss XH2.0mm XH2.54mm XH3.96mm Dupont D-Sub Terminals JST Pin Crimper SN-01BM Crimping Tools for Crimper Plier for AWG 28-20 （0.08-0.5mm2ÿ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YGLKBSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OzVqSjVqrqvyz
Make sure to run it on 3.3v. Voltage can be changed on the PCB. I don’t know what the factory default is right now.
Frank
I got some similar looking… but have two crimp always twice, first the real connection part and second the insulation part… its annoying… maybe i should get myself some nice glasses with lights… could it make better…
@trampa The Encoder is jumpered on 5V… what do you mean by running them on 3.3v ? How to switch the switch on the Vesc , what for a tool you use? A thoothpick?
You can set the PCB to take 3.3V. Read the AMS PCB manual! Some smd soldering is required. Set the VESC to supply 3.3V on the sensor port. This will reduce the noise and worked better when testing the AMS5047P.
Frank
Okay but the noise is fine now… so no need IMO… except you see any Danger for the VESC ???
It’s really better to use the 3.3V! You want to eliminate any signal noise to get this working smooth! Mach es besser! Spart viel Ärger. Frank
There’s this tiny switch on the VESC6 PCB, it’s available through top PCB cover cutout, next to sensor port.
There is a switch on the PCB. You can use a needle or simply take off the cover PCB. Don’t move the VESC PCB, since that destroys the heat pad.
Frank
Yeah i see the “hole” but not the switch
Ok Frank i try it with a needle…
