FOCBOX UNITY $299 | R-SPEC DRIVE KIT $588

E-Board Build - Dual 6355 SK3 - Li-Ion - BMS - Kegel


#1

I’ve been lazy so I haven’t started a build thread. Running short on time so I’ll be brief and add to it later.

I started out with a Bustin board that my brother in law gave me. I’m not sure of which Bustin deck it is. My last build used Zippy lipo batteries and it was a pain in the arse to take the board apart every time I wanted to charge it so I decided to do lithium ion with BMS.

Here’s my parts list:
6S4P Custom Built Battery Pack by @barajabali (24X LG HE2)
2X Turnigy SK3 6355 Brushless Motors
2X Single Bolt On Motor Mount w/ Drive Wheel Kit from @torqueboards
2X FVT 120A 6S Car ESC
FVT Programming Card
Custom Made Vacuum Formed Enclosure
Chinese Battery Capacity Meter
XT90 Anti Spark Loop Key
"Winning" Compact Remote 2.4 GHz
5.5 X 2.1 MM Charge Port
All XT60 Connectors
Imax B6AC V2 Charger (Wired for a single DC port)
Orangatang Kegels
Battery Supports 45A 6S BMS
Custom Momentary Switch for Capacity Meter
Caliber II Trucks
Bronson Speed Co G3 Bearings

Here’s the original board.

Here’s the pack the @barajabali made me. I couldn’t have been happier with this service. He made it as soon as he received the batteries and kept me updated throughout the whole process.

I got my motors in along with my drive kits from @torqueboards and went ahead and bolted everything up with blue loctite.

This is the vacuum former I made:

I made this with it:

This is my BMS:

This is my schematic for my WIRING HARNESS. I don’t want to hard wire anything so it all can be easily replaceable if it breaks. So any 6S battery can be plugged into the harness and it will have EZ charging/balancing capability.

This is the harness 90% done:

This is the controller I will be using. I have a GT2B for backup just incase this one is shitty.

I made this charge cable as well so that I can using my IMAX charger until I grab a “laptop style” one.

That’s all for now.


#2

Excellent build thread

And nice job @barajabali


#3

I kind of remember speaking with you about your diagram. Just wanted to make sure you have everything hooked up right. You need to have your charge port go from B- to battery positive. You currently have it going from P- to B-.

Is that a 40A fuse on the left side? If so you might want to opt for a larger fuse since you’ll likely trip this one going up hills at 6s.

Let me know how the winning remote goes for you. It worked for me 99% of the time but would occasionally get stuck throttle or not respond to braking then suddenly kick in when i’m braking way too hard. It was too scary for me to use so I swapped remotes.

Good job though, everything looks great and I hope your build goes smoothly.


#4

Disregard the diagram. I uploaded an old one. It’s correct on the harness.


#5

Here is a video of how it all works. EXCUSE MY VOICE. I HAVE A COLD.


#6

Good little video, why does the volt meter need to be under no load for it to work? Is that because of the momentary switch you installed?


#7

If it’s under load it will give you an incorrect reading


#8

Everything hooked up! Now just need to clean up the wiring and mount everything.

I put a current meter inline and ran both motors at full speed. It saw around 14-16 amps at full speed with no load. So I’m kinda worried my 45A BMS won’t be enough so I went ahead and ordered a 60A replacement.


#9

Hm interesting. I’m using dual VESCs with 5065 motors and I only get 1.3A draw at full rpm on the bench.


#10

Why doesn’t your esc make sounds? I mean, when I brake they make a lot of noise…


#11

I was wondering the same thing. With my hobby wing esc there was tons of screeching noise but it’s completely silent with the FVT ESCs.


#12

Keep in mind this is 6s. And it wasn’t the constant amp draw. This was max amp recorded after several full acceleration pulls.


#13

the brake squeal is proggramed int to RC car ESC’s. seeing as FVT are programmed for skate, there is no need for squeal


#14

That’s actually not too bad then. My amps kick up to about 35 during the initial acceleration on bench, then drop down to 1-2 amps. I run a 40 amp fuse and have never blown it. I think you’ll be fine with a 45A BMS, but 60A isn’t a bad idea either.


#15

That’s crazy that your amps kick up to 35A while on bench? I was testing the current myself and my RSpec 6355 single motor on a fully charged spacecell (42V), the highest I got was 10-12A i think. I think your high amp draw is because you’re running 6S?


#16

I’m running 10s. and it’s only 30~A for literally a split second, I just see the spike.


#17

this is with no load right? I ride going up a slight incline with no push it goes up 27A only. This is recorded with a watt meter. Should be pretty accurate. What kind of cells do you have on your 10S?


#18

This is bench testing with my laptop connected. I doesn’t need 30A to push the load (wheels and pulley only), it just spikes due to the fast start up. Using Samsung 25R’s with 35A battery output for each VESC


#19

are you running the VESC at Motor Max 80A? Mine is set at 60A. But I’ve compared the numbers to a 12S 120A ESC and are similar. I’ve tried to get higher peak amps while bench testing but never got 30A. Strange in a good way I guess. As stated earlier, slight incline 175lb rider, 27A peak with 1025Watts.


#20

45A motor max (90 total). I’m sure you’d get similar spikes in current if you checked on your VESC during startup on the bench. This is extremely momentary and is pretty insignificant. I have a 40A fuse so I’m sure I never draw more than that.