Dude Hubs - In Depth Dual Hubmotor Build

ESK8 Builds
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I ordered the pcb’s from oshpark and the parts from mouser. You need a soldering iron with temperature control with a very fine soldering tip, fine tin, flux, SMD hot air station,

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SMD soldering paste … and a mircoscope or a real goog magnifying glass to control what you’ve done.

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Where did you get those tiny hall sensors?! they are fantastic!

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What do I have to know about hall sensors? Maybe I want to put them in jacob’s hubs. I would have an old RC motor (4s) with hall sensors. Could I use them or do I need special hall sensors?

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Forgot that one - overview of the 2D-drawings.

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Is there any chance You could upload those drawings in higher quality?

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The link to my dropbox is already in the first post. Gimme a notice if you can access the drawings.

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Thanks! Downloaded the files, everything looks great!

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Thank you for opening this thread. :+1: Nice to see that there are also some “real DIY” people out there. This build rocks. Do you have done some real world testings since your last update. Would be interesting to see how they perform compared to your belt drive system.

And are there any infos available about your spot welder. (I remember to saw @whitepony’s similar one somewhere, but maybe there is a extra thread somewhere that I haven’t seen) Thanks. Keep up that awesome work.

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mine is here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70435#p1062504

good old days :smiley:

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Thanks. The good old phpBB. :blush:

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Basically I build the V1 of this arduino spot welder DIY-Arduino-Battery-Spot-Welder, added TVS and Schottky diodes to allow for freewheeling current and prevent avalanching the MOSFET as described here: TVS & Schottky . Power Source is the capacitor I found in the description of @whitepony (see above). For the power source I used my current limited lab power supply. Using a battery charger should also be possible but with 17V pump charged in the cap I got only melted holes even for the shortest welding time. 12 V with the power supply works fine for me.

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Hi Dude, Fantastic work !! Your hubs are amazing ! I have small questions about your hybrid capacitor-arduino spot welder :

  • How is the circuit to power up the cap. You just wire it to your current limited lab PSU and that’s it ? You keep it wired when you trigger the soldering ?
  • Which shottky diodes are you using ? I could not get my arduino welder to work when I add the shottky.
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Yes, directly connected to the PSU with a small automotive breaking bulb in series - when it goes off I know the cap is charged and ready to fire. The PSU is wired all the time. Regarding the Schottky, I will check when I’m back home. Checked: Schottky MBR4045PT-E3 (switching diode, 45V), TVS-Diode Uni-Directional 1N6275AG

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Thank you very much for your help !

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This is a serious motor modification, yet necessary, because most outrunners have only one bearing support. In terms of home DIY not everyone has a lathe and a milling machine, so approximately how much would all the machining job cost? Excluding material expenses. I guess clamping sleeve (9) won’t be need with a 8 mm shaft motor.

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Sorry, but I can’t tell you the machining costs since I’m not a professional. Just made the parts in my spare time, luckily I could use the lathe of my company and had the help from a friend.

The clampung sleeve is essential, no matter what the shaft diameter is. It is necessary to generate/transmit the friction force frim the nut to the axle, preventing the stator from spinning.