Unless you’re going to seal all the screw heads and anything else exposed/not sealed off you have a chance of getting water in the case.
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Okay, thanks!
I have actualy not any clue in how to waterproof the screws ? Maybe some rubber washers with some oil on them ( since water don’t mix with oil) I need to find a solution anyway since without airflow the fins are basically useless
I ride with a single one stuck onto the bottom of the deck, just a piece of tape over the USB port, all the bolts have rusted, not a single drop has gotten in, make sure the grommets are on properly 
You can always replace with stainless hardware A dab of Vaseline under the bolt head will waterproof it
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On another note @scepterr have you needed any locktite to keep the screws in place ? I was a bit worried about the vibrations and since you are already riding it u could maybe tell
I never have, though I have a pad under the enclosure to absorb vibration
I’ve got about a half dozen riding around NYC with no loctite 
I’ve got one client who rides daily by the ocean, on the boardwalk, the only damage and something I didn’t expect were his ppm wires getting disintegrated by the salt, upgraded to 18awg and heavy sleeve
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I’m in the final stages of my build. I have to shorten all my wires. Then my plan is to use high temp rtv to seal the case. Probably don’t need high temp but it’s what I have right now. I’ll loctite the screws as well for the final closing.
For sealing the bolts i would suggest butyl tape or silicone caulk (sika flex) thats what we use for deck hardware on boats.
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Yeah high temp silicone gaps
Good to know. Even after it’s all sealed up I’m only gonna call it water resistant. For sure a work in progress
Looks like it fit inside really nicely 
Just a reminder for everyone who needs a good case with improved thermals for FocBox’es
Single, Double cases
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Can confirm these things not only help aesthetically and for mountability, but they keep the FOCBOX running much cooler so it performs better
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I think there is even posibility to “overclock” (run at bit higher current than allowed, as heat is dissipated much quicker and it runs cooler)
Already testing that. I think my 8ga wires are getting hot as well though. I saw some discoloration near my loop key on my kydex enclosure. Going to open the box to further inspect. I didn’t see any melting, discoloration, or warping on the wire or key itself.
I’ve bumped my battery amps to 65, however I haven’t surpassed 55A on my setup. It’s dual 6374, but I think some larger motors would easily pull more battery amps.
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What connections did you have to solder? Are you using canbus?