Doing the (d)rucks

why doesn’t anyone add the mount to the truck? One piece machined or even cast? Simplify and strengthen things. Less parts. Could look nice. Cast would be cheaper I guess and likely more diy-able. Maybe ur into doing it but making the baseplate seems overkill.

Casting hanger w mount sounds fun. Maybe. Lost wax casting. Or some kind of permenant mold and u could pop them out cast the axle in. Seems a LOT easier. Unless u have a mill or bucks.

I didn’t include the mount, simply because it will require more raw material and it will take longer to machine the hanger. The truck parts will float under a different project name and I wanna keep it as stealth \ simple as possible. Cast would be cheaper but I have no idea where to start. Never cast anything and I wouldn’t trust a DIY cast truck a single meter. It is already complicated enough to get the custom-made stepped axle stubs right.

Putting all this research and effort into this project and not doing a matching baseplate would be just insane.

Cheers

Street wheel setup:

AT wheel setup:

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Still working on the layout of the truck as there were some issues with the previous design, mainly because the turn radius was restricted by the deck I am going to use for my next build.

Here is a quick summary what I’ve ordered so far:

I am not going to fabricate my own axle stubs, simply because the process would take ages. Instead, I will most likely purchase RONIN stubs with the extended thread.

Other than that I’ve already received the first parts from the shop:

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Ronin Axle stubs arrived!!! This was the missing piece to finalize the drawings. Baseplates will get into fabrication in the next couple of days!

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Damn!! Dual 6374 not beast mode anymore. :scream:

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What’s the tread type on the inner part of the axle stubs?

Not entirely sure but it looks like as if it would be similar to the KP thread. Will post it here once I found that out, but def. imperial! The threaded part has a diameter of 9.52 mm or 0.375".

The threads look coarse to me. So it’s must be 3/8-16 Threads Per Iinch.

Seems like it is a 3/8-16 thread! Do you know whether this is a common thread?

I’m not sure what you mean by common thread? If you meant by how much this size and thread type is used depends on the application. If it’s by location…, I’m from the US so we all use imperial threads unless your car is Japanese and you always lose the 10mm wrench or socket. Make sure to verify the thread pitch! There are also online charts for imperial and metric sizes which was how I figure out from the photo.

Sorry, I meant whether this is a common thread in the US. I do metric things and these fractional numbers confuse me a lot :wink: I measured the pitch with a caliper and it seems like to be a 3/8-16 thread. I know that there are online charts and I know how to measure things (not a noob)

Is that a rigid Enertion Space cell strapped to a flexible loaded vanguard!?

lol

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Yeah, that’s from my build 9 months ago and still works sweet after >>1500 km. The cell doesn’t lay flat on the deck. I am using spacers made from a soft material to prevent breaking the cell.

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Got any updates on these? :smiley:

Still in progress, however, mostly happy with it now. Changed a lot of things over the past months including baseplate angles, bushings, also tweaked the pivot, and of course the entire hanger. I am using the following components to set up the trucks

  • Aera steel kingpin with tall nut
  • Ronin precision axle stubs
  • RipTide 96a Aera K3/K4 pivot tubes
  • RipTide Krank Barrel 90a (back truck)
  • RipTide Krank Barrel 87a (front truck)
  • Insert bushing on both trucks
  • Split angle 45deg (back), 52 deg (front)
  • Precision flat washers street and board side
  • dished bushing seat
  • axle width (tip to tip) 315 mm (close to Torqueboards 218 mm)
  • Ride height: 63-65 mm
  • Rake: 0 mm (maybe added in a later version)

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Well done. Still gonna send me the CAD of the final design? Desperately in need of machining something. Is this still rakeless?

Also, there’s a simple way to minimize the thickness of the adjustable baseplate.

For the surfrodz indeesz adjustable baseplate, the kingpin threads directly into baseplate. There’a no need to use a locknut. This means the baseplate can be as thin as possible whilst giving a higher level of adjustability.

Oh, and next time get your kingpins from boltdepot.com I got 8x grade-8 bolts for $10 including shipping.

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Yeah, I’ve seen those but not a fan of an removable KP. Also, how much range do you really need? In the current setup I can change the angle from 38 to 54 degree.

I split my rear trucks all the way down to 15 degrees. Why aren’t you a fan of the removable KP?

On my rear truck, I can’t really go much further than 45 degrees, especially with these huge motors. Maybe because I fear it will egg out faster than the other way around?

@anon42702729 time for an update on these beauties? I think you got the prototypes in hand?

https://grabcad.com/library/jmp-cnc-longboard-truck-1

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