Buy FOCBOX Unity : China Factory Direct Retail - Electric Skateboard DIY Kits and Parts



Dude just stop, you’ve been here 30days and you think you know everything. What good is torque curves without real life data. The things that I have stated have been found by myself and many others on this forum. If you want to know more about the rpm limit @bartroosen12 might know some more. If you want to know more about efficiency ask any knowledgeable person on this forum and they will tell you 80-85% is the average efficiency using urethane wheels and belts (With a reasonably geared drive train)


Hey Pat, I don’t know what I did to rile you up. I am interested in real world data, I commented because your back of the envelope math didn’t make sense to me. I believe you that there is could be RPM limit and that is wouldn’t be good to over that. I am interested in these motors/power train which is why I have been following this thread for some time.

Efficiency (to me) is something like watts in from the battery vs watts out of the motor. Rpm is a speed of the motor. Max rpm possible based on Kv vs load rpm would give you a number on how much you are loading up the motor. I haven’t seen 80% around, but you must have based on your testing. Actually I would guess that it would load up worse on higher kv motors with the same drive train. You also would probably have worse efficiency (watts in vs watts out) as well.

I’m the first to say I don’t know much, hence why I follow these forums. Joined in Oct '16 if you didn’t see that in my profile, but I tend only log in when I want to comment on something. I see you joined in May '17, but really I wouldn’t have thought to check on that to see if a person is worth talking to.


@diyeboard … I had a big scare yesterday when my throttle stuck on my board while I was riding very slowly with my dog. Not just one time but several times in a row. The board threw me off and shot into an intersection. After that I tested it several times in the different speed modes and it was still happening. Do you ever have issues like this? Could it be the esc? I am hoping I can resolve this, as it is a brand new 10s5p AT board.


Not to me yet but thanks for the info I will let you know if it happens to me…


@diyeboard are the 50mm 180kv motors available? Someone on the forum here told me he got 180kv motors with the 6"airless kit. I’d like to order these motors please.


Did some more testing today. The throttle stick issue has now become a major problem to the point where I am afraid to ride my board. The throttle will just randomly stick on full speed and if I don’t catch it with the brake in time it throws me off the board. The lever or trigger on the remote is not sticking so I am wondering how this happened. Have you had any other reports of this @diyeboard? I have only ridden my board less then 50 miles and there is no wear on the belts.


Sorry about that mate, thought you were trying to have a go


So, I thought the throttle sticking may have been a problem with the remote. Only problem is that when I try to program and sync the new spare remote @diyeboard included with my board I can’t get it to pair. I turn the board on and the power indicator on the board is constantly flashing. According to this review of a similar board I am supposed to turn the board on, hold down the power button for six seconds, then use a screwdriver or pointy object to press the hidden button on the remote to sync the board with it. This did not work, and only made the new remote flash a red light rapidly. The original remote (they are both version 2) still works but I can’t seem to sync the spare remote as is shown in this video. I am hoping Jason can give me some insight, as I have been very happy with my board up until this point of almost being thrown into traffic.


Here is some Diyeboard kit tips& tricks
Make SURE your motor connections are solidly connected to the ESC, and wrap them with electrical tape.
Use some sort of shock absorbing system for the ESCs in the back. Use rubber or foam or anything to make sure it’s held in place or else it’ll rattle inside the enclosure. The vibration will make rattle noise if the esc is not secured/mounted.
Periodically check the wiring and keep the battery maintenance with good condition in cold weather.
If your ESC stop working or only one motor working, please open the enclosure up and checked the connections, reinsert the motor phase connections to ESC, 3 for each motor, and fully cover the connections with the sleeve.
If your ESC get water coming in and stop working, power off the switch, try to use the hair drier to dry it up and reconnect it with the motor and switch it on again.
If remote no longer control the esc, you need to charge the remote and go through the pairing process for remotes. Sometimes the ESC and remote can get reset and lose the pairing.


i hope you are fine, sorry to hear this. eboard riding always is a fund and thrilling sport. when you practise more and get accustom to it, you will find such braking force is necessary.
you can try to pull the remote joystick slowly and not too much, joystick distance is related with the torque.


5055 180kv motors is not available. it is 5065 motors, we only bulk customized for some customers, and got few stock and sold to one individual customer as he insist want 180kv.
to be honest 180kv not good for AT board, it will lower the speed and make a worse braking.


if you have problem and need support, please email me for help.
Remote Pairing Instruction

  1. Turn off both the board and the remote.
  2. Turn on the board.
  3. Press and hold the power button for 5 to 7 sec until the power button light starts blinking.
  4. Turn on the remote.
  5. Using a thin stick, quickly press once the recessed binding button on the remote.
  6. If you see the battery gauge light up with the green light on the remote, they’re connected.



I just sent you an email. I am very disappointed as I was told the 180kv 5065 motors were not available and now the kit that I paid nearly $400(dropped $80 the next morning) for is unusable as I’m using vescs and a 10s or 12s setup. Please please please sell me some 5065 180kv motors or I will never forgive you. Please help me out. I’ve requested this now more than three times.


why are you pushing us selling something we don’t have? please understand we can’t meet your request, if we have why we don’t sell?


Look, the only reason we want 180kv is because we can safely use a vesc and 10s battery more or less reliable than your esc. This market is “based on” vesc so you would be smart to sell something compatible with the vesc which most of us are using. Please consider


Don’t buy ANY kit that is based on their chinese ESC if you plan on using a VESC.
Let that be a warning to all.

  • You will not find appropriate motors
  • You will find that the gear ratio is optimized for their KV and ESC
  • You will find that the motor mounts don’t offer the required belt tensioning for increased performance
  • You will find that important replacements parts are not available for some kits (bushings)
  • You will find that bearings can’t be replaced easily (pressed in for the 11’’ AT kit with 8’’ wheels/hubs)

I would not consider these DIY parts. You slap their stuff onto your board and that’s it. There is no fine tuning or replacing parts with something better, unless you hack the sh%t out of it and spend more on it than you would on a proper Trampa. In the end, you spend more if you expect anything other than a simple install & go type of thing that will last for years.


currently we only can supply 180kv 6354 motors, we don’t have 180kv 50motors available, we only do mass production, anyway we will consider it, thanks.


is it because we can’t offer you part that we don’t sell, you bought from others and require after sales support from us and require parts from us that we don;t sell in seperate, again and again you say bad things about us but you never bought from us.
feel sad about you, no more words with you, whatever you want to say, but be reasonable and be honest.


Kits are called “kits” for a reason… parts sold altogether because thats how their meant to used, if your daft enough to start mixing and matching parts before checking whats compatible or what isnt then thats on YOU!


I am still having trouble getting my acceleration to work correctly. My spare remote will not pair using the above mentioned method and my current remote that I paired first does not seem to be the problem. One of the motors seems to be getting stuck in “accelerate” mode while the other one seems to be working correctly. How do I check connection to esc and motor? If connection is bad what parts do I need to fix the issue. I love the board and had no problem until now. Have never bumped the motors or ridden in wet conditions.