yah, if they are smart they will send a respectable forum user stuff to test and review on a regular basis.
estimated at 120usd, two vesc bind together and totally waterproof.
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we appreciate your comment here, there’s lack of communication caused issues for your built. if you let us know you want to swap the bearings we will leave it empty so you can make your own bearing mounted. anyway what you said here are good for us to improve it much better. if you need any support from us you can feel free to let me know, i thought you wrote to me before for replacement of hub scratch of bearing swap by you and we agreed also. is that you? i must say your quality require is high beyond our factory level, you really pro on this and made a nice built, we can tell from the photo. the spacer is intentionally designed for this has a reason, we need it to swap the at wheels to 83mm pu wheels kit. see vedeo here: 6’’ Airless AT wheels quick release wheel change to 83mm pu wheels
if you have any futher suggestion or problem please feel free to let me know, message me or email me. We want satisfy our customers buy the right thing and happy with it, if you are not happy with it , give us a chance to correct it right. we thank you for your professional review here.
I don;t undertand well, the photo used only our wheels, he used his own motor and esc. you can tell from the photo easily. you mean the 9’’ at truck for the 6’’ at wheels?
we will improve all our specs and discriptions more accurate and more proffessional, we don’t want to mislead our customers. if anything you feel not for sure you can double confirm us. i think we should level up our quality standard to a extramly high level so can meet most of proffessional builders’ need.
He used your wheels & hubs, right? I was referring to the spacer in between the two bearings, like he was. From what we have noticed, these are generally speaking a bit too long or short and sometimes the correct length.
i understand this, thanks for clearification, the spacer problem is due to the 83pu wheels swap, maybe we need to sell two kind of wheels kit, one with current spacers for wheels swap, another with regular right spacers. and we indeed need to do more research work before making a new item, selling diy kit and part is really challenging, small market but extream demands in quality and unique design. maybe we should only focus on selling complete board to regular users.
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Regarding your controller. Realize that many here are willing to buy and promote your product (unique, one if not the first mass manufactured dual VESC) if you simply ensure that you are working with the upgraded BOM list/make it FOC worthy with an amp rating of 50A continuous (60 preferred) per motor. That means direct FET with proper passive cooling provided by your housing, upgraded capacitors and a few other bits.
You would take a relatively big market share (currently mostly FOCBOX) and dominate the dual motor market for high end ESK8 builds.
It would not cost you that much more in components.
thanks, you are absoluting telling us the right thing and most important thing to make a good business and develop a new vesc. we much appreciated, i will direct it to our technicians for further feedbacks and public as much as possible the specs and bom that we used if ok for out technicians. hoping that not too sensitive.
if you want a repacement just feel free to let me know i will arrange it for you. i sent you emails before but no further reply from you regarding your mentioned bearing swap caused hub scratch. we can send you new hubs.
Appreciated. Thanks.
Too easy to cherry pick. Someone has totaled the initial jump on his/her own expense.
Hey, so what makes their leads so shitty? I have some of their motors, so I’m only asking out of concern for my own projects.
edit: I’m using some customized motors from freerchhobby
This is awesome… I’d buy one of these the moment they go on sale.
stiff, low count multistrand copper in PVC sheathing that cracks after bending a few times, melts with the slightest amount of soldering and will eventually break conductance as the leads get brittle from all the heat and bending from regular use.
They’re just the shittiest wires you could put on a motor if you intend to use them for an esk8 because motor wires need to be highly flexible and stay cool under load.
In a lot of other applications, such as in model airplanes or cars where the wiring isn’t flexing all the time, they make little difference i would imagine.
Thanks for the helpful reply!
I guess i’ll be changing those wires in the not too distant future. Hopefully the windings and magnets are fine.
if they’re Maytech motors they are. Or, rather, if they are the motors that Maytech middle-mans then they’ll be great. The only issue i’ve ever had with using motors from maytech or sk3 or turnigy or really any motor is the phase leads are shitty. I get that you need a certain gauge for windings, but simply extending the windings all the way out as the phase leads is cheap and shitty when it comes to esk8 motors. Terminiate the windings at the housing and solder in wire that was meant for outside the motor, not wire that was meant for inside the motor.
High strand count silicone wire is the only wire that has any business inside or on any electric skateboard. Anyone using that cheap shit is asking for a fire, or minimally, an inconvenient short.
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great, when you buy anything from us let me know for coupon discount, thanks for your support.
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On my first board I used solid strand copper because you can bend it and it stays in place. That was it’s only good point. It got hot, resistance was high and the jacket is crap. Stranded silicon is the ONLY way to go.
i did the same exact thing.
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