I have the exact same problem, I’m not sure where the issue is. I always assumed it was an issue with the motors.
When the board goes into this low power mode the motor makes a different noise too. It’s bad when you are commuting on a busy street and this happens out of nowhere.
@gmurad @Pnwesk8 could it be the ESC overheating? my non AT belt kit had problems that made it feel like there was no power even with good level battery, I ended up cutting away some of the enc. to get more cooling in there - that solved it
Neither in one nor in the other, my package still does not appear, the salesman tells me to be patient, to compensate me in some way that sure is in customs and I believe him, I do not question his word. But PayPal’s protection is about to end and I continue without my package, I do not know what to do.
interesting. I think it could because it often happens after a while, usually not early on during the ride. What I usually do is keep breaking and accelerating until it comes back because my previous theory was that the motor got “stuck”
yup that sounds like overheating, I cut this section i the bottom of the enc.
its not pretty but it means I only really have overheating issues if I break really hard at speed or I’m really pushing it really hard for sustained time
I don’t have much of the DIYEboard stuff left in this build, just the ESC/Motors, it’s been really hot here in Toronto and I go max speed for extended periods of time. I’m not sure if want to drill holes on the enclosure. The board not ready (since the pic I have some idlers and belt covers) still gonna wrap the cables in flexible cable wrap instead of tuck tape but currently like this:
is that a metal case? if so you could use it as one big heat sink 
It’s aluminum, not the best for dissipating heat but that’s a good idea, should help! Any ideas on how to connect the esc to the case to get the heat sink effect?
you could stack thermal pads. how big is the gap?
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTMNI
I didn’t think it was over heating because it will do it one block after starting my first ride. Voltage still 39.5. I’m going to add a heat sink and cut a hole. Wish I knew how to add a fan. Not sure where to get 12v on this circuit.
Anyways they are sending me another Esc, I’ll post my results if it fixes the issue.
PUBLIC safety announcement. Be careful with the trucks on these kits. This happened to me at 30 plus mph (45kmh) the trucks snapped. This isn’t the first reported case of this.
Impossible to tell what weight would be safe. From the looks of it, there are gas bubbles in the aluminum cast. The break looks uneven with bubbles in it. That means that depending on the accidental structure of the bubbles, the truck will be relatively strong or weak. Then there is the unknown if these trucks are heat treated.
Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.
Can you post a high resolution close up photo of the fracture ?
I want to examine it as aerospace parts point of view (like at work). Its can also be high cycle fatigue, wrong material used for the application,stress point at manufacturing or poor desing …
I have the same trouble here !
Agreed 10char
I can chime in here and say I had the same issue with the truck snapping at the same spot, on a rough road. Happened at about 25kmhr, ended up with nasty bump on the head for a week. @electrickiwi if you haven’t already, you can contact DIYeboard and get a free replacement
I’m using the dual belt drive and I seem to have a lot of resistance pushing, a magnitude higher compared to my other belt drives using Torqueboard components. The drive is also REALLY noisy when rolling!
I already lubed the bearings (including the flanged bearing) which helped very slightly, but the main issue seems to be misalignment of the gears causing significant noise. Anyone else have this issue?
I think a bigger deal needs to be made about these trucks. This is something that should NEVER happen, DIYeboard needs to take these products down and fix their shit