So far everything works great. The ride was smooth, they definitely help with bad roads 
One thing is a bit weird: When I put 100mm wheel diameter in Metr settings the readings are way off the GPS reference, with 95mm it worked.
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CooL! awesome to hear itās riding well! What would you say is the duroā of those new wheels? Are they soft and buttery!?
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they feel similar to the front wheels, theyāre supposed to be shore 80A.
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Nice job !
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Bib enterprises sells better stuff. Less filler. Better rebound and durability
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can you share a link, i just found other stuff on linkedin ect.
Duu. Bjb
Still room temp pour stuff. U might be able to get hot pour stuff somewhere which has even better properties but a lot more work
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yeah, read about that thereās a b2b reseller in Germany not far away from my place, someday iāll pay them a visit. the stuff I use is available in smaller packages, better for trying 
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thank you very much
@Pylonflyer runs a lot of the show at bjb. Heās here. an expert and very helpful and interested in this stuff
Could you please link the actual stuff youād use?
I canāt now but look for their 80 duro or 90 duro polyurethane. Iāve used both the long n short cure time stuff. Itās pretty good stuff. Durable. Not the rebound thatās great though
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Oh, its not that urgent, whenever you have time/access 
Iām overwhelmed by their choice of materials and Iām not so much into it. Some time ago I read from your posts of your pu experiment to use 80A for hubs and also that the stuff I use is inferior to the one from bjb But i had to try it anyways since I have no use for a whole container of that (Its deteriorating quite fast afaik). @Pylonflyer Could you convince your boss to sell small amounts of that good pu? I got a one kilo set from smooth-on, thats about the size I can use. I wonāt ever produce the sleeves in a bigger scale
They do quarts
https://bjbenterprises.com/index.php/polyurethanes/castable/flexible/all-purpose/tc-680-a-b/
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Thanks a lot, I wrote an email to my local distributor asking for this one
Next run:
First I had to get rid of the PU from the last bad try which was a fight (which is good)
Then the sleeves had to be carved a bit. The removal showed the importance of this so I did even more carving with the dremel
I cleaned them with warm water and put them on the heater to dry
The mold and the centering hubs were sprayed with silicone spray for easier removal (dont know the exact term)
Put in the Sleeves
Screwed the hubs on top, automatically centering everything
Mixed the components (Part B, stir, Black Paint, stir, Part A) to get 360gr of PU (a little bit too much but next time Iāll know better )
@Hummie I just got a response from the european distributor, they canāt get the one you linked (dangerous stuff it seems) and suggest to use M-3180 A/B www.bjbenterprises.com/media/wysiwyg/M-Series/M-3180.pdf Did you try that also and if so does it serve the purpose?
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Yea that one Iāve used too. I didnāt notice much difference at all between them other than duro and cure time didnāt seem to effect much
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Have you tried applying a bit of baby powder to the mold? Itās meant to help reduce surface tension, to stop bubbles forming.
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not yet, havenāt heard/read about it yet, will check, thanks My result will never be perfect, for that Iāll need a vacuum chamber but maybe that baby powder will help a bit more. So far Iām already happy with the result but it wonāt hurt either
If u heat the resin a bit it will be thinner and less likely to hold bubbles. Stirring without adding air I bet I could get close to vacuum results. Iāll use a very thin layer vasaline as mold release or coconut oil.
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