DIY Trigger Style Remote with Telemetry - Complete Guide

HMMMmmmm… yes I know of brownouts in RC.

Okay I will try adding a huge cap on the 5V and see what happens. There is already an LC filter but I think that just smooths the noise rather than store voltage for brownouts.

As for the second issue, I was considering swapping to a pololu setup (previous DIY remote used it without any issues), but that means I need to re-do the PCB and desolder the two halves. Another friend of mine suggested that the arduino might be going into bootloader mode for some reason on startup.

I haven’t tried the cap on reset pin trick yet, will report back when I have done so.

If your having issues on the receiver side with 5v line coming from the vesc… Then your drv is probably about to die as the DRV is the output of the 5v buck.

So a 10v 100uF cap between reset and ground pins did the trick of needing a hard reset to boot.

Now to fix the brownout issue…

1 Like

IT WORKED!!!

I added a 1000uF cap to the output of the LC filter and it was smooth sailing from there for a test 15km ride I just did. Even managed to start on a slope without any issues.

YAY! All issues resolved!! (For now)

One more thing to note, I realised it’s not enough to just wrap the NRF module in copper tape, I needed to tape the entire bottom PCB covering the NRF module. Again no idea why this is required but it made the difference between no connection and a solid connection…

4 Likes

im glad the issue was resolved. did you put the cap after LC filter? to be clear 5v-- LC-- cap–arduino?

Yes cap after LC filter

going to try it on receiver side but need a cap first :slight_smile:

Awsome, now i need to build one i have everthing but the dang hall sensor… not finding them on a fast shiping option only slow boat option 60 days etc does anyone know if a difrent p/n will work?

1 Like

Ordered PCBs from easyEDA, used DHL express all was 13 euros in total shipping to EU

Oh? How is it so cheap?

I think any 5v hall sensor will work. You can try other options other than aliexpress

i have no idea is it supposed to be more expensive? they are using jlcpcb.com for the orders and thats the price for 5 each total of 15 pcbs.

Last time I checked the price ballooned after they upgraded their website. Maybe they corrected it.

is it possible to place that 1000uF cap on the pcb where marked with 220uF ?

Yes just that the 1000uF will stick out like a sore thumb

I found a way to use removable pins to stack the two PCBs! Now it will be easier to repair the board should the need arise!

To make this fit I had to do without the plastic on the header pins of the Arduino and solder it directly onto the pcb.

On the bottom PCB i found that I had to shield the entire bottom for some weird reason. This includes sheilding the nrf module with copper tape first. I then use blenderm tape and copper tape to cover the entire bottom leaving the antenna exposed of course.

Another modification I made was to replace the resistor on the lipo charger with a 2.2k resistor to lower the charge amp. The lipo can take the charge at 1A but it gets a bit too warm for comfort.

Built another remote just to see how long it takes me to do up one now that I know what I am doing. Still took me 2 long nights including all the electronics as well as sanding, spray painting.

The buttons are a real bother to install, need to bend the limit switch flap just right to get it to activate correctly.

Also didn’t realise the AliExpress shop sent a different coloured oled… I prefer the white actually.

4 Likes

Lets cnc some cases, i have a Haas 4 axis cnc mill we can make some out of HDPE? for a production

4 Likes

Did anyone looked into mod the parts so that there is only one USB port to power/charge the battery and to program the arduino?

Yes you can jumper some wires to the USB charge port. Someone did it in solidgeeks remote.

Although I wouldn’t bother as adjusting and uploading the code is a rare occurrence unless you are busy dabbling with it like I have been.