also wanted to add that this battery fits very well into your case design. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-750mah-1s-35-70c-lipo-pack-fits-nine-eagles-solo-pro-180.html
I’m using this sensor… I got the link from somewhere in the forum that was also looking for a 3.3V hall sensor.
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good to know!
I just happened to stock up on a few 18350s but I can understand that it’s not a common cell to find.
Thanks for the info appreciate it.
It’s a good battery and I tested it it’s exactly 750mah as advertised. Way better than those no name batteries also you don’t have to modify the resistor with this one. As it can take 2c charge rate which is around 1.4A. Size wise that’s as much as it can go before touches any moving parts.
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that’s pretty sweet… wire routing? Just go over the lipo?
I also like how you added what looks like a CF rod for additional support!
I did beef up some of the smaller parts in my latest design, also added another 0.5mm to the shell to make it a little sturdier. The plan was also to print it in a better material…
oh its not thick theres enough space to double stack that battery and its not a bad idea lol, i would route everything under the battery. before i started printing my own cases i ordered it from someone else and first and only thing that snapped was that pillar holding the spring. so i just made a beffy cylinder and tap m4x20mm steel grub screw in there :)) strong as hell. yea thickness would definitely help but layer adhesion is probably the most important thing. if it is good enough your design is good as it is. another thing i changed was the interlocking system. i printed around 3-4 sets and they all failed on that point where the case has thinner walls in order to interlock to each other. so i just made it thicker and created tabs on the top half to the inner walls without sacrificing from the wall thickness. pretty much like how firefly interlocks top and the bottom.
Ah, I thickened the lip (interlock) just because someone complained that their printer had trouble printing it… (was it you?)
In any case it now fits very well and is easier to print too…
Let me know how your 3.3V hall sensor works out for you, one issue I had was it seemed that the sensitivity is different from the 5V one, which required me to adjust the end points via the remote. Seems to work okay now.
I also adjusted the magnet positions on the trigger. Previously before you pull the trigger completely it would already be at max throttle, i.e. the full throw of the trigger was not utilised. I have since changed this such that the full throw is now registered.
The parts list is here:
Parts List for V2 Remote Transmitter
I haven’t changed the receiver for now.
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it wasnt me 
printing is no issue it actually prints beautifully but the strenght of it was the problem. i think i will have a bigger issue with installing a bootloader on it. it uses atmega32u4 chip right? if yes then probably need to go with arduino leonardo bootloader?
328p… arduino pro/pro mini 3.3v bootloader…
Was a real pain to do so without the right rig…
Oh ok for some reason I thought you had basic proto model. I blame the coffee.
Forgot to mention, that hobby king battery connector probably won’t fit into a normal jst housing. It took me a while to figure out what it is. Turns out it’s a molex connector. Here is the male end… could be used to make small molex to jst cable or can be soldered where needed. In my case I shortened the cable and soldered it to the board.
Thanks!
Do you also got an update on the PCB Link to order? And Thingyverse for the Case
Still testing… So not releasing it just yet…
Had some strange issue today when I was testing… I rode around perfectly fine… But then when I wasn’t holding the remote I would lose connection. Need to figure out what’s wrong.
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Sounds like a lose connection (maybe) When you hold it it puts pressure against a wire or connector and when you let go theres not enough contact
all speculation
i had the same issue, for some reason same setup and everything is not behaving identical on the second remote. when the cable of the antenna makes a good contact with the top metal shield of the nrf module signal is kinda getting boosted. so try that and tape or glue it, you should get good result. to eliminate that issue i started to avoid putting nrfs with antenna in the remote side. sometimes it just doesnt work.
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So I thought I had to do something a bit crazy like remove and replace the NRF module…
In the end all I did was flip the antenna.
But I agree, might not be worth the trouble, will build the next one without antenna.
interestingly receivers with antenna has no issues for me and having at least one side with antenna is a big boost for signal. so, remote without antenna and receiver with antenna is good enough. i never tried this module so far http://www.ebyte.com/en/product-view-news.aspx?id=113 it seems to be giving the freedom to choose between with or without antenna. its just abit longer(25mm) than their products. i might give it a go in the future see how it does in practice.
I rigged up a little bootloader flashing jig, takes a bit of wriggling to get the pins to contact properly on the pads but I did manage to reflash another two feathers.
Really no idea why these feather boards are so problematic to work with…
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ive seen people use other arduinos as their programmer is that not possible?