Diy battery pack using Basen 26650 hi drain Li-ion cells

@Namasaki What thickness are your nickel strips and what settings did you use on your welder?

Strips are .15mm thick and I set the welder on max amps and max pulses. Wanted to make sure it wouldn’t break loose with vibration.

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Hopefully my .25mm strips are okay. My uncle’s company has got professional spot welders, so hopefully they have an idea on what settings to use :stuck_out_tongue:

Bigger is better when it comes to nickel strips!

Indeed. I might still use copper wick like whitepony just Incase.

Now I won’t have to stop and turn my board over to check the battery!

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I need a router :expressionless:

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I just used a dremel with a router attachment. It was a little squirrely so I had to finish it with the file.

Nice one !!! Let us know what the range you’ll have.

I will have to test its range once Its all back together. I’m expecting close to 18-20 miles with 9ah 69% on this meter is 38.4v This meter has switches on the back to set it for battery type and cell count from 2s to 15s

@Namasaki And how do you like that BMS ? Seems like it’s one of the best available on the market right now ?

Haven’t got to test it yet. But I think its a robust bms. with twice the Fet’s and heat sinks. It’s rated for 80a cont but can burst up to 240a The max amp protection is adjustable at the factory so I had them set it at 120a which matches the peak amp capability of the battery pack. anyway, I’m never gonna pull 120a unless I get a short.

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Spaghetti

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Shrink tube crimp connectors are DOPE!!!

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can you explain more on how you crimped them?

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You crimp them with crimping plyers just like automotive connectors. Then heat them with a hot air gun to shrink the casing. I added the black shrink tube in the middle as an extra in case the crimping tool cut through the insulation. I made a solid connection and I could not pull the wires back out

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So far, I love this bms with its built in E-switch. There is no spark at all when I connect the final battery cable The only down side is that you have to turn the bms on to charge the battery so the board is live when charging.

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I can imagine that you can loose the cap for the charging plug while riding :joy: it is nice but we have to deal with too much vibration. Maybe you lock it with a pin or whatever :wink:

it is a thread protector that I got at the local hardware store. I bought 3 of them. there cheap. It is soft and fits tight so it doesn’t come off easily. Time will tell though.