DIY 6S to 12S BMS with CAN - DieBieMS

Charge voltage: should 0,7v above pack voltage to be able to fully charge (due to protection diode

the CAN connection: VESC1 | VESC2 | BMS canH | canH | canH canL | canL | canL – | 5v | 5v CAN – | 5v | Enable Can (<-- connect to 5v for push2Start) GND | GND | GND

5v_CAN is mandatory to power the primary can circuit on the dbMS Enable_Can is optional connected to 5v_VESC for push2Start

pinout of the dbms image

4 Likes

Do you guys also realized that the two chips between the positiv ports do get HOT? And that every other BMS got heat sinks but DieBieMS does not.

Did someone worked on this?

@rene Do you or anyone one else have any adivce on crimpting the J12 connector? Maybe the wire I’m using is too large or something, but I’m having a hard time getting those little legs to clip. It looks pretty clen and narrow, but when I pull it out, the legs look bent inward and I have to use tweezers to pull them back out. But everytime I try to insert it, the pins get pushed in and stay, they don’t spring back out and get connected, even though I get the entire pin in.

Any advice is much appreciated as it’s driving me crazy to where I want to just de solder the port and solder directly. to the pcb haha. But I’m trying to restrain myself.

Does anyone know of the proper name for this connector? I wouldn’t mind even picking up a pre-crypted cable with the port on it. All I can find on the schematics and BOM is J12.

Its a WR-MPC3 connector that should be used with 20-24AWG wire. At least that is the conclusion I came to. :sweat_smile:

3 Likes

So this wiring diagram unfortunately doesn’t help with the latest gen of switches. They have the following listed names: C, NO, NC, LED, and A.

Doesn’t anyone know the correct wiring?

I would love to get this bms working. I’m just finding it hard as information gets old and then theirs no documentation for most of what I’m have to do as the end user to get this running.

What would have been amazing for future groups buys would be if cables were pre-crimped and wires pre soldered to the switch. I would pay an extra $30 to not have to guess and break stuff trying to figure out what is what.

So far, I likley blew the first one because I got frustrated with this stupid balance plug.

The second one is like the first, in that I plug it into the computer and windows chimes and it shows under devices. But it doesn’t find it when I used the DieBieMS tool. Both are v0.8. I get no lights on the bms, either. I connected my battery to it and tried to use the switch, but nothing works. It’s been over 15 hours now I’ve spent trying to get this bms working and I’m ready to just throw it in the trash and move on.

Update: So the second one I was able to get the firmware updated, and it now powers on when I plug in the usb. But it shows 0 volt for the battery pack. It this because I don’t have the battery balance wires plugged in? It shows the bms temp correct (I activated rt data).

The correct wiring for the switch is: C and NO for the switch. That is the red and black wire. LED and A is for the LED. The green and the blue wire. The yellow one is not used. Same with the NC contact of the switch. bms_switch

1 Like

Hello!

My BMS has been working great in my board, but I have been trying to plug it in to my computer over USB to change some settings and have encountered some issues. If I plug it in, lights do not come on, but it does appear as SLAB_USBtoUART in vesc_tool, Ackmaniac’s tool and DieBieMS tool, but after trying to connect in all 3, I get a No firmware read response error. I get the same issue when using CAN forwarding to connect to it.

I also cannot seem to flash it using my STLinkV2 using the debug connector on the side of the board, it is apparently not recognised or connected, even after I double checked all the connections.

Any ideas?

Edit: My debug connection wasn’t as good as I thought, I soldered it and manually flashed the bootloader and firmware to the correct addresses using OpenOCD, but still getting the No firmware read response error :frowning:

Edit 2: I tried flashing the VESC boot loader, and the older DieBieMS firmware, using a different machine and still no luck :frowning:

Don’t know which is the correct thread anymore, so i used this one;) Can I still order the DieBieMS somewhere?

1 Like

Try here. I think there are some extras made.

https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/diebiems-v0-8-batch-3/65313

@evoheyax May I ask what firmware versions you used, and the steps you took to be able to use it over USB? I think I have the same problem :frowning:

I tried my best to wire up the based on what I knew at the time to do the power switch. Hooking it up to my battery, and then pressing the switch turned it on (with the usb).

I have the switch weird up correctly now. Working on the display and waiting for pre crimped wires so I hopefully can get them to fit into the connector for the balance wires.

1 Like

Thank you for the diagram!

I wired up the switch correctly and it seems to work. The bms turns off after a few seconds though. I’m assuming this is because I only have batt - and batt + connected, with no balance cable yet?

Also, when I plug the screen in, nothing happens on the screen, but the power switch blinks a few times before it turns off. Unplugging the display returns the power switch to the state above (no fast blinking before turning itself off).

EDIT: Solved! If you mess up the wiring, it will I guess it will blink before shutting off! Glad it doesn’t just blow up! Now it shows a battery with and x, then says bye and shuts off, haha.

I guess this is all normal since I don’t have balance wires connected yet.

The other thing I’m wondering if any can answer is…

Is this really bms limited to 80 amps (as the silk screen infers)? That is to say, If I put a 130 amp fuse, would that be an issue? (JTAG originally said 140a theoretically)

Also, I saw this asked before, but I didn’t see an answer, as to what is the type of fuse these are called? Trying to find replacements but not sure. I have been running 120 amp across 4 vescs and was very happy with the performance. If I could keep that and not have to put this bms in parallel, I would love this bms that much more!

1 Like

@JTAG @Samau18, mostly the same question as above: would these work?

Looking at the 125 amp available from Digikey: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/142.7010.6122/F11191-ND/5234200

1 Like

If that works, looks great. If theoretically 140a is the true amp, 125 would be a nice in between. Since I’d want to limit it 10 amps lower than the fuse so I don’t blow fuses during hard accelerations.

That is exactly what my thinking was. I am building two 12S6P packs using samsung 25r’s. So this would fit nicely; especially paired with either the Unity or FSESC dual.

Yep that sounds about right. I ride 4wd, so it’s tough to get a bms that can power 4 vescs to their full potential. That and I just built a 12s 25ah lipo pack (a bit over a kilowatt of juice) that could easily do 400 amps con. 120 ish is still limiting, but ok for now until the more amps shield is ready.

1 Like

It’s too bad that the development of the more amp Shield has gone silent! Till then I’m just paralleling my my two DieBieMS’s for the 200 amps I’m looking for.

2 Likes

Hmm, now the lights come on, but still no communication with any tools :frowning:

I don’t suppose anyone could use an STLink to download their entire flash so that I can write it? I can’t think of anything else to try :confused: