Ordered 
Thanks a lot!
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Had some troubles with my charge port, there was poor (loose) contact. It got very hot and the charge cable as well, I mean really hot. I soldered a new connector to the charger because the old (in the middle of the pic) melted and the outer plastic ring expanded. Meanwhile ghetto charged with adapters, I have to change the charge port as well but am not sure yet if I keep the Pelicase.
For the 12s6p I have different options. The easiest way is to make one brick which would fit into the Pelicase. The most beautiful way would be 3x4s segments side by side. But the spotwelding gets complicated and I would need to make a segmented enclosure (not a master in enclosures), also waterproofing is difficult.
Also I was thinking about Sanyo NCR20700B cells which wouldn’t fit in the Pelicase and have more voltage sag but crazy range. 1101Wh (4.5kg) with 12s6p compared to 777Wh (3.6kg) with 18650. Haven’t decided yet. 18650 would be VTC6 or 30Q.
However if I use a wider enclosure I have to mount the MBS heelstraps the other way.
This is how the heelstraps should be mounted (as in manual), ratchets and long ladder straps towards the middle ofhe board.
It works great but the ratchets need space when closing/opening, bad for a wide enclosure.
First problem is that the ladders are outside on the long strap and inside on the short one, furthermore it looks a bit different (checked it too late). I tried the ratchet on the short strap (could be flipped).
Bad thing is that it is impossible to remove the heelstrap anymore because of this “barbed hooks”
I had to dremel them away…
Finished the first heelstrap but it was better before, it is not centered anymore because the short ladder strap is too short when the ratchet is outside. Damn but I really wanted to ride so I wanted to finish the second heelstrap to test it in real life, just the last ladder strap and SNAAAAP! 
Shit!
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Dude, that sucks. Did you buy those new from @MBS? Maybe they can send you a replacement ratchet or strap. I don’t use my heel straps very often yet, but I was under the impression that you set the heel strap position and leave it static, then use the toe strap to get in and out of the bindings and adjust the tightness. Obviously, that won’t work with a busted ratchet but seems like you wouldn’t need the clearance so much for the heel ratchet since it doesn’t change very often.
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I bought them last July from ATBShop in UK, this was the second time I ever touched this ratchet. You need a lot of force to close them (plus keep the other hand on the ladder strap), maybe would be better made of metal 
I know many do it like that but I prefer to have the toe straps static and open/close the heelstraps only. Furthermore I route the wires on the rear binding.
The broken ratchet is the small one, the big metal ratchet for opening/closing is fine.
I’m having the same nightmare with the charge plugs, melted a lot of them, I can’t find anywhere a quality P4 male plug, all of them are cheap made and can’t handle the current
I’ve given up on them and moved up to GX12 or GX16, I would suggest doing the same, them you can charge way faster without worrying
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I read 12s6p… What enclosure do you have? I am going to fit a 12s7p with a 100A smart bms inside a peli 1150 case 
thinking of charging with a 15A charger or more.
Btw: for your charge port problem. Use a xlr plug 
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At how many amps do you charge?
I charge at 4A but recently ordered a 8A charger with 5.5x2.1mm plug 
for science, wanna see how hot it becomes. I plan to change the charge plugs and ports to bigger ones but not sure which one.
I did some research and everything I found was rated for 5A only. Also these connectors were not made for electricity.
Huuuuuuuge 
Do you know the amp rating for these? Generally would be interesting to know ratings for different charge connectors.
Maybe I do it DIY with XT30, nice size…
Pelicase 1150 but I want to get rid of it. 12s7p is possible but not with BMS on the side, on the top I have not enough space because of voltmeter.
Furthermore it’s 12s6p mainly because of the weight, would love to have more range but not more weight. I made a decision and will go with a 18650 brick of VTC6 which cost only about 30€ more than 30Q right now.
The Pelicase weights 0.8kg, so 3.5kg in total with my actual 8Ah lipo and BMS. I need to save weight so I’ll make an enclosure made of 2mm ABS to keep the total weight at around 4kg for 18Ah compared to 3.5kg for 8Ah which is a quite crazy difference in range.
Ironically the new DIY box should be even smaller in width than the Pelicase so no need to flip the heelstraps and I broke the ratchet for nothing, damn.
5A, good luck with 8A 
keep a fire extinguisher close
I see a lot of chargers coming with the GX series, true, they are 5A each pin, but you can get the 4 pin version and use two pins in parallel
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Is this close enough?
Hmmm just realized the extinguisher expired in 2009 
I’m getting old and should buy a new one.
That’s pretty damn clever bro and sounds like the perfect solution 
. I never thought about that but start searching for 4pin GX12 right now.
Maybe the rubber cap is better because with the metal one a short is possible
I have to dig further, there are thousands of different combos available but this is a perfect solution, thanks a lot!
@pjotr47 needs a 6-pin for 15A 
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Or just use a xt60 with panel mount and 3D print or silicon form your own waterproof cover. Easy thing, no troubles.
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Since they are cheap I bought a bunch, GX12 and GX16 in 2, 4 and 6 pins, and rubber caps for both
I plan to use the GX12 6 pin for sensor wires
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Lol 8A with a jack. The max amp is around 5A for such a connector.
That’s what she said 
… a xlr port is not the smallest but it is nice if you have room. I think they can do around 10A max.
xt30 is indeed a nice size.
Oh, a 12s7p is a very nice fit in that peli 1150 case. I have finished today my 12s7p with a 60A bypassed smart bms. 100A in mail
If you want I can check out the weight for that pack incl enclosure.
15A charger crazy? I was even thinking of a 30A adjustable (voltage and current) charger. But that would break my bank…
Yeah please buy a new one 
I tried once
to put out a fire with an expired fire extinguisher. So that thing did nothing at all. Fortunately I got out on time. I had a headache and a blue tongue for 4 days.
Lol, I am just waiting on this socket.
It is 4pin and can do 30A with no problem.
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I have been thinking about a 8A charger. So far I am leaning towards a XT30 or similar charge port. I find the XLR type ports unnecessarily big and complicated.
I can always make an XT30 to barrel plug adapter to use my other chargers.
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A xlr port complicated? It is just solder 2 wires and you are ready to go… The thing is that a xlr port is easy to mount. a XT 30 not
I have a bunch of them at home. I always use them in the packs I sell. Those are from the manufacturer rated for 5-6A max. This is just a Aliexpress seller who placed 10A on it.
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Noted, That is a good thing to know!
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I was referring to the fact that in order to get 30A on an XLR connector you would have to use a 6pin version and even then the nominal current rating would be 22.5A.
The main problem is the male one
The connection between the pin and the tab and between the barrel and the negative is just press fit, shouldn’t call that since it’s very loose, as you use the degrades and heats it even more until it melts away
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@pjotr47 @Pedrodemio So what would be your recommendation for the 5A+ With the possibility to seal port from dust and mostly the water.