By pushing the thumb throttle down, it has a built in switch.
Apart from the 3 pins of each potentiometer (blue pieces) and the 4 on each corner holding the whole joystick down, the 2 or 4 remaining should be for the cruise
Unfortunately they could be routed on the top of the PCB making more difficult to trace it
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You motivated me to open the remote again and searching for the switch connection and finally I found the tiny switch itself for cruise control and how it works.
No way to solve it electronically so I thought I could add a mechanical blockade that the white lever can’t touch the switch. I took a toothpick and filed it a bit until it fitted into the gap.
Some magic glue and done! The toothpick is strong enough even when I push down hard.
Finally the cruise control function is locked and no more unintended activation possible 
.
If I ever have to pair the remote it’s easy to remove the toothpick.
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Ok solution 
If you manage to cut the 4 black dots the button will open and them you can remove everything from inside
Thanks for the hint but I think I leave it like that because I need this switch for pairing with receiver and removing the toothpick is easy if I ever need it.
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mind I’m asking, what is the version of the vesc6 fw are you using? is it the latest one?
I’m still on FW3.38 (Vesc-Tool 0-94) 
I would love to get rid of the low braking/release problem in FOC but I don’t know if cogging is the better solution. I’m waiting for more feedback and until my balls get bigger.
My shoulder still hurts but is good enough for riding without falling 
. I had 2 rides yesterday and recognized that my Lipo degraded badly. In winter I thought it’s just the low temperature but it was 18°C and my range is max. 14km instead of 20km (12s 8Ah). Damn that’s way too less range. I need to start my 12s6p asap, only problem is money like always.
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You need to start on your 12S7P or better yet 12S8P 
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I would love endless range but there is no more space left in the Pelicase to go bigger. Also my board is not light weight so the bigger the heavier and 12s6p already adds about 1.5kg.
I’m waiting until fishpaper and heatshrink is back in stock at Nkon and then order 30Q’s, too. I would prefer to spot weld the battery but have no spot welder. Maybe I buy one with a friend together but it’s expensive just for 1-2 batteries. Second choice would be soldering (with cell level fuse) where I have all materials at home. I already soldered a 10s4p with flat copper braid without problems but have no long term experience with this pack e.g. if it degrades after some time. Spot welding is definitely better.
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Lack of space is a legitimate problem. The malectrics costs 130€ so not that expensive. If you want I can lend you mine after I finish a couple of batteries I need to make for my Tayto and a friend’s Evolve.
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Wow thanks for the offer 
in worst case I PM you.
I have to take a closer look to the malectrics, seems fine. I was thinking about boss level and a friend about kweld. The malectrics also has seperate electrodes to hold with both hands, is this a problem in real life? I can imagine it’s easier if you have one hand free e.g. to hold the nickel strip.
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Quite the opposite. With 2 electrodes it is easier to put equal pressure to both as well as reach difficult places. I found it very easy to use when I made my Trampa battery
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I have a sunkko spot welder as well and ready to lend you for the time you need. Not sure about how much shipping that thing would be, but… just in case, let me know.
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Thanks a lot, really appreciate it!
I’m afraid shipping a huge parcel back and forth is too expensive and risky 
. But I’ll let you know in case.
Didn’t expect this kind of support from you and also @taz and am stirred 
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Bro got one sunko laying around too…
Many options 
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Haha great welcome to the spot welder battle, many thanks bro!
I had a ride today with a bit hardcore uphill action (want to know the limits), motors reached 70°C and Vescs 50°C. Outside temperature was 15°C so I’m a bit afraid of summer.
The last rides I recognized a loose rattling sound from the rear truck on all terrain. I checked all screws and everything else but couldn’t find the root. Today I started to beat and knock on all kind of parts until I found the issue. It’s the bad motor, it got worse, sounds like something is loose but it still runs without problems, weird.
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Just read what happened, speedy recovery. Those basterd stones are my mortal enemies (causes a shitload of damage when falling) . Only thing I don’t have yet is crash pants. Good reminder to buy one of these.
Regarding your dead pack, were these graphenes?
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Thanks, fortunately I can ride again because the “bad” right shoulder is quite safe when falling (riding regular).
It wasn’t a pleasure to wear the crash pants in the beginning but after a short while I got used to it and now I feel naked and not safe without. Highly recommended but in summer hot AF 
Yes but they are still graphenes, just a little puffed and with less capacity. Below the nominal voltage the voltage decreases very fast, last year it was much slower. I guess the main problem is that I’m using 15C graphenes, this is my second puffed pack within 2 years.
I recognized green slime on the heel strap from my ride yesterday
I looked at my shoes and saw no signs of tire sealant, then I looked at my trousers 
Damn it! Even on the hoodie and helmet but it’s dry already, hope it’s removable.
Strange thing is that I can’t see any damage on the tire and it’s still fully inflated. There must be a thin cut somewhere.
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Lol, this thread has been SO entertaining!! I’ve been laughing out loud while reading. People looking at me funny 
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Would be interesting. I almost fear that with the amount of riding we do throughout the entire year, not a single pack survives for more than 1.5 season. Same with my drone packs, all dead within a year no matter the C rating.
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