Replaced all bearings today and they were equally messed up, including the gear bearings. The gears outlive the bearings in my case, so I won’t be fixating them with glue.
Regarding skid pads, finally had the time to print them. Should have added them from the start. Turns the gear drive trampa back into all terrain instead of street/minor off-road capabilities. No more need for 9 inch wheels.
My gear bearings are still fine after 1000km. The problem is that the wheel bearings don’t fully touch the hub, therefore they wiggle. Also all the forces get mainly transmitted through 2 areas and not the whole bearing seat as you can see in the picture
That’s why I’ll try Loctite 641 which is made for this purpose. It’s medium strength and should be not too difficult to remove, don’t know but look here
Loctite 638 is high strength and I’ll use a little bit on the helical motor gear opposite to the keyway.
Already mounted? pics? 
Unfortunately the progress is very slow because my shoulder starts hurting when I lift or build something. Anyway the show must go on, finally mounted the motor plates on the Infinity hanger, added sugru and prepared a new baseplate.
But then the disaster started, for the helicals I wanted to remove the grub screws of the motors and replace with socket head ones. They didn’t move at all and both are stripped now (of one motor). On the spare bell I could remove them without resistance. Like always: 1 step forward, 2 steps back 
I had to make a decision about the motors because I can’t use the Unik motors with stripped grub screws for Helicals so they can rest and have to wait for another project. The grub screws are still tightened just stripped.
I decided to use my emergency motors which arrived from Hong Kong a couple of days ago, Turnigy SK8 149kv. They are huge, the motor length is 89mm (without the nipple 80.5mm) and weigh 0.986kg.
Shaft is 38.5mm 
It’s time to make some noise
Picked up my fresh black anodized bull bars today 
Then I was shocked because the bull bar touched the motors when holding by hand but after mounting it looks I’m lucky.
My plan was to mount the cables with zip ties to the bull bar (left and right at the hanger) before routing them to the top. I have to rethink it, the big motors are so close plus the edges of the channels are like razor blades.
Man, that is a very tight fit between the motors and bull bars. You sure they won’t rub once you riding?
What if you add two washers between your hanger and the pull bar. Could give some more space for the motors than.
I’ll tell you once I’m riding 
It looks a bit closer in the pics because they were shot more fom top and not from the side. When the motors are in the final position I’ll triple check all distances, no doubt.
Good idea for the worst case
I had to cut the collar in length, i guess you did the same thing ?
Do you happen to know, where to get new ones ? They are kind of special, and only 0.5mm thick…
Looking forward to hear, what you think about sk8 
Yes, didn’t know first how to cut it straight. In the end I slided it on a 8mm aluminium tube and cut both tubes.
It’s not perfect and I need a 0.2mm washer which I don’t have yet.
Thanks for reminding me to buy those. Trampa sells them in 6.5mm length, so it sticks out 0.5mm.
I think with the side loads of the helicals it’s better to use 100% flat and accurate spacers. I wanted to do it quick and dirty by cutting the original one but in the end it should be perfect not almost.
Furthermore I ordered kingpins and the following washers which are great for any motor
Thanks for the awesome links.
I used my cordless drill, and hold my hacksaw against the collar , while it was turning around. Perfect cut 
Damn, much better solution, next time I’ll do it like that 
Regarding this : http://www.trampaboards.com/8-x-10-x-65mm-brass-shim-spacer--slips-on-the-motor-axle-to-align-motor-pulley-p-25938.html
The text on the pictures says 8 x 10 x 6.5mm, but in the text under the picture, it says 12 x 15 x 1 mm 
I believe its 8 x 10 x 6.5mm… But do you think this will fit ? Because the ones that comes with the motor is 8 x 9mm…
I know they write OD 10mm but it’s not. Forget the text, maybe it says stainless steel, too. There are products where I find 4 different sizes for the same product. On Trampa page many things are mixed up. I got used to it and waiting for my surprise parcel.
I had Trampa motors which look very similar to SK8 using the same brass tube as Turnigy just shorter so it must be the same.
My theory is that the chinese factory (probably SunRay) which produces Trampa motors (and SK 3) took the same design for the new SK8 motors. The can is different but the rest looks equal, even the shaft is 38.5mm on both motors and Turnigy even cloned the Trampa motor axle support bearing housing, the only reason for this ultra long shaft. Also they sound equal when spinning. IMO the same just different, Trampa says their motors are hand-wound, don’t know about SK8.
Wow this is very very good info, thanks…
I will order those brassers then… thanks again
I also received mine today. They are identical to the awesome long-lasting tires that were on my old mountain board/exact same brand (clever). The pressure rating has been changed to 60 instead of 80. I safely inflated these to 70 in the past, but if they are punctured the inner lining will unravel and the tire will begin to bulge. This won’t happen if you stay around 50. Also makes for a more comfy ride (you can go lower on pressure compared to other tires due to the stiffness of these things, also increases grip).
There is no center ridge left on mine now…after 2500 km. 
Soon. Needs some changes. Fit is not precise/downside of not having the cad files, seems my diameter measurement for the enclosure was off by a few mm.
Good info about the tires, will mount them in a couple of weeks…
I remember when you posted this picture
Finally I know the date when I gonna ride my “new” board after a very long break, it’s on saturday 
Damn I’m sooooo curious about the helicals and also the motors, it’s like christmas.
Received the 6.5mm brass tubes and spacers for the motors.
It’s very close but nothing is rubbing
I ordered all kind of screws for 30€ but the Unikmotors had M3 grub screws so I had no M4x6mm for the SK8’s. I use 10mm socket head bolts instead and because there is only one I glued them to the shaft and thread with Loctite 638, that should hold 
I would call this the point of no return
48 hours cure 
Added phase wires and heat shrinked all connectors, next step is soldering the other connectors and sensor wires and add wire mesh
Unlike most others (I guess) I love how the cables come out of the motor, perfect for routing on the hanger and no more cable loops, unexpected surprise.
Because of the length of the motors the cables are mounted very very close to the motors which is tricky. To achieve absolute no movement in the wires I made a construction which holds the cables in place, more pics gonna follow soon.
And yeah I used some foil on the motors, the blue and silver hurts my eyes on a dark setup
Nice one bro. Bring on Saturday and hope you have a safe ride on the new beast. Loving the updates you have done and can’t wait to see more pics when it all comes together.
My board is currently out of action - dropped a cell in the battery pack, so I’m having the pack rebuilt. The downtime has allowed me to make a few minor tweaks to help kill the waiting time.
Today is the day of rebirth, ready to ride
Finished everything at 5am and fell asleep, totally forgot to charge the battery but shouldn’t take too long from now.
Why this soldering takes always so long, just 18 wires 
Also fixed some other things. I lost one bolt holding the Pelicase so I also could inspect the battery and damn it’s a bit swollen not as bad as my old puffed Graphenes but nothing I’ve expected after 1000km. But I have no idea when I should stop using this pack. It is wrapped in gaffa tape which is not flexible at all so the forces must be huge to stretch it.
I use tire sealant inside my tubes against flats which works great but unfortunately it’s absolutely impossible to counter balance the wheels with this stuff. So I cut the valve including the enforced rubber of one tube for science to measure the weight, it’s 16-17gr so about 4x5gr balance weights opposite to the valve and the valve wobble is gone.
The MBS Vine tires are quite unbalanced that’s why I had to add or shift the counter balance weights by try and error. I took an extra hanger (holding/laying in the hand) and changed the weights until the wobble and vibrations were gone.
It’s quite tight inside the rear enclosure but I could close it, all good.
Because of my heavy abuse before using the drive guards I have some signs of usage on the drivetrain
This is e.g. from ollie up a sidewalk with too low speed and land on the drivetrain(s) only on the curb, this happens more often than I like. Also sometimes I land with full weight on one drivetrain and also once I slided some meters with one drivetrain on a cobblestone curb before crashing. I can’t kill this drivetrain
But I recognized that due to the abuse on some spots material at the edges stick out a bit on the motor plate and the POM housing.
For the aluminium I used a fine file and for the housing sand paper. Now everything is like new again and solid sealed with the straight edges (no gaps).
Damn I like the clean look
Wait, where are the cables?
Zip ties with shrink tube for better grip and protection mounted to the bull bar. The Infinity hanger has no holes like Vertigo so another reasoin for the bull bar.
Hehe, my battery is full and I need to go for a ride soon, I’ll let you know about my first impressions
Damn bro, hope you can ride again very soon 
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Damn… that is one sexy ass you got there 
Wow bro ! This is some good level up finish details !!! 
So clean !!
Fall in love with your ass too 
Enjoy !!
PS : how did you complete the streaks of the sk8 ?! 
