Looks equal to MBS Vine but they are made of different more rigid nylon material which has less grip and is heavier. Could be that this tire is flatproof
Seems like they are the same tires which you already used in the past @telnoi so 50% price and at least 200% range. Could be that the riding experience is more uncomfortable with this hard tires. I remember when I switched from soft Rubena tires to Trampa Treads (hard compound), it felt like wood wheels compared to the thin tires. But these chinese ones from Aliexpress are heavy duty ultra mega hard compound
The MBS Vine last since 350km and still have 50% rubber left on the rear tires, front tires have more rubber…
But let me lift the joke to the next level!
You think the Vine tires are thin? No man, my Rubena tires are thin. If you can hold you tires like that it’s definitely soft compound
But these were the most comfortable tires I’ve ever had because of the weakness they acted like a suspension. But bad offroad traction and one exploded.
Disassembled and degreased a drivetrain and did some inspections. After about 1000 kilometers (620 miles) the gears still look quite good. @Nowind estimates at least 2000 km and I’m sure the gears can take another 1000km and more than that. BTW using black grease on black gears was not the best idea.
There are a few very small damages at the edges but that could be my fault. I had to re-mount the gears several times and therefore adjust the backlash. The wheel gear has a support bearing but it can happen when spinning (fast) by hand that the gear gets aslope and the edges have to take the force. I guess this is what happened.
But nothing to worry. In the future I’ll attach the hub to the wheel gear before adjusting the backlash. This way the gear stays straight when spinning by hand and it’s also perfect to check the hub/bearings if there is any wobble. Almost all hubs wobble but it’s best to choose the most true hubs for the gears.
As mentioned my vertigo hanger is totally bent (guess from jumping) and eats bushings at breakfast. Listen to this sound
I’m so excited and can’t wait to hear it, ah I mean not hear it. Holy @Duffman@Nowind shit!
Need to prepare the motors for axial load first and also thinking about using Loctite 641 retaining compound for the wheel bearings and motor gear but it’s hard to find.
Some more esk8 porn comparing straight cut and helicals.
Thanks bro, looking forward to silent ghost rides
I plan to make a direct comparison video of both gears with equal setup (same motors, same camera).
I know how time consuming this building is… Just a quick fix, you think it’s a 10 minutes job and 3 hours later you are done (like me soldering some wires yesterday). I have no wife or kids and even then everything takes forever.
It’s getting dark earlier and I need some serious lights. Yesterday I tested my 18W 12V lights for the very first time. It is awesome and so bright, pefect for absolute darkness. I have a flood and a spot version but I prefer the spot version, it shines about 50-100 meters (150-300 feet) best visibility within 20-30 meters. But very annoying for other people, looks like a small motorcycle is appearing.
Made a 3s1p with VTC5 cells and BMS for powering this light. Planning to mount everything to a bull bar. I have to experiment with height before I decide about final enclosure for the battery and on/off switches. Gonna add a second weak light when there are people around and 1-2 lasers as well.
Hehe. I know that oh so well. Plus, I do have wife and kids. Fortunately, I’m just taking some longish time off work. Otherwise, I don’t know when I would ever find the time to finish my build.
How will you prepare the motors for an axial load?
I think I will go helical too after the current gears are done for. My wife bought an e-mtb (mountain bike) and complains about the noise I make
PS. I just stick a light to my helmet using a gopro mount. Nothing beats being able to see the direction you are actually looking, though it looks stupid as hell.
It’s not much to do, first step is to use socket head screws with Loctite instead of the tiny grub screws which hold the shaft to the can. This way you can crank them down much harder…… well unfortunately on my motors are M3 grub screws and this was just a test fitting. Lesson of the day, do not overtighten
Second thing is to remove the circlip and add washers between motor and the gear so there is no gap. It’s best to glue the gear with Loctite 648 or like in my case keyway with grubscrew (blue loctite) plus on the opposite side on the shaft some 648 or 641 retaining compound.
Loctite 648 is high strength and 641 medium strength (and easier to remove). I wanted to use 641 as well for the wheel bearings but I’m so confused. Locally Loctite 641 costs 65€ for 50ml, on ebay the same for 13€ from greece or estonia (with long delivery time). On amazon germany 10ml is 20€. There are many different bottle designs then there is Loctite imported from china. Is there fake Loctite existing? WTF I need this stuff right now!
Also good idea plus people (or security cams) don’t see your face
Thanks for the explanation. How have your motors been holding up by the way?
For sure.
That’s how I aligned everything from the start + I had a feeling the gears would not be accurately aligned if you just drop the gear onto the shaft as indicated by Jens in his video tutorial. The attachment to the hub alone will most likely offset it due to potential manufacturing inaccuracies etc. Part of the wheel is plastic after all. The partial dependency on the wheel hub for alignment is probably the only negative thing of this gear drive compared to say the Kaly drive (gear bearing not pressed against axle, wobble of wheel hub transfers to gear directly).
Adding loctite to that bearing seems like a good idea. Got a feeling it shifts around a bit/generates noise.
Let’s say I had some bad luck so far. I really like the motors and they are powerful but not everlasting at least for me. One problem is that the cables can move inside the motor if you move them outside which leads to internal shorts that’s why it’s important to decrease the strain to 0% and route them on the hanger (or fix it with sugru on the motor). I am really happy with the customer service of Unikboards because I got replacements very fast.
The sealed can is very nice and nothing can enter, on the other side the motors definitely run hotter compared to open motors. It’s like everything in life, nothing is perfect and you can’t have it all.
Just for demonstration, here you can see why the cables move (there is no protection beside one heat shrink tube for all which I removed for the pic)
Did they require replacing before the gear started cracking?
Ordered some stainless steel replacement bearings now (for everything), my wheels have some unwanted movement after around 3800 km.
The bearings are fine but my wheel bearings are always done after a few hundred kilometers. I changed the bearings 3-4 times already and now after 350km they start sound bad again, clicking and grinding noises. I’m sure this is because of the massive play inside the spokes that’s why I want to try retaining compound.
My dream is to have rattle free wheels with longer lasting bearings…
We mountainboarders are poor people. It’s a tragedy to be happy when a tire still looks good after 60km 
I plan to make a direct comparison video of both gears with equal setup (same motors, same camera).
