DIRT MACHINE | Trampa Holypro 16 ply | Vertigo trucks | Superstar hubs | Unik Polaris 6374 150kv | E-toxx black direct drive | Vesc 6 | 12s

I see a lot of safety gear without plastic hard shells and wonder how they look after sliding on loose gravel? I can’t imagine they survive when I look at all scratches on my plastic shells.

I have broken bushings on the rear hanger again :joy: Ordered a lot of replacement parts from trampa yesterday, hope the shipping is faster than the common 1 week.

Unfortunately I have new annoying problems since 1-2 rides, after 10-15 minutes the “hybrid” motor gets sizzling hot (really untouchable, over 85°C) while the other is just warm (about 50-60°C).

So when I accelerate, at about 50% speed there is a hard cut off (100°C) on one motor which leads to very strange “speed wobbles” of the rear truck, the same for braking. When I keep on riding the power is like zero even with full throttle maybe max. 5-10 km/h, the “cold motor” on the master vesc should deliver more power when the second motor has cut off, this is very strange.

A small hope is to change the bearings of the motor (because the can wobbles a bit) and hope I can solve the problem but it also wobbled before without overheating, no idea what’s wrong, damn…

I’m also thinking about how to attach my 12V front light for night rides. I bought a step down converter but don’t like to add more wires and drain the main battery so I’ll use a 3s1p Li-ion (VTC5) with BMS in an enclosure plus mounted light as separate unit with velcro (hope it holds). And yes, I solder Li-ion :grin:

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Get real Velcro brand velcro I have now packs witch I can’t tear of without using any tools :smiley:

I’ll try 3M dual lock or the wide one from hobbyking.

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I got this for like 5-10 pound just 1m I think

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Switched to new Maytech remote just to see if this causes the heat problem, who knows. After changing the rear bushings I had a nice ride for 4 minutes until the overtemp protection kicked in. The motor is hot like lava, could boil water quickly, the other motor is not even warm after 4 minutes. I’m really desperate, no idea what’s going on and can’t afford new motors right now.

No more riding, no more jumping :disappointed_relieved:

Have you switched wires to confirm that it’s definitely the motor that’s the issue? And if so, swap the motors to eliminate the drivetrain as the issue? You didn’t tweak the drive gear housing or anything when you crashed?

And be careful with that dual lock stuff. The static holding power is good, but it doesn’t deal with vibrations nearly as well as Velcro.

I haven’t switched wires or vescs yet (because I didn’t change anything on my whole setup before), I think it’s the motor but I should try this option, too.

Hehe, yes I did but that’s a different story.

I try to explain it quick, it’s a bit complicated :laughing:: There is Motor A, B & C. Motor A & B was my first setup then I crashed and killed Motor A. Fortunately @okp sent me Motor C to replace Motor A. 14 days ago Motor B broke (acting as a brake, resistance when spinning but not shorted). After that I combined the can and shaft from Motor B with the motor part of Motor A (from the crash). The can has a slight wobble on the motor part (I guess the bearings should be replaced) but it worked without problems for some rides but suddenly it is cooking within a few minutes. Because there were no heat problems in the beginning I don’t think the bearings are the problem but I can try to change them.

Confused now? :crazy_face:

Thanks for the hint, then I use velcro.

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At this point I’d rather have a hole in my armor than my arm, legs, torso. Recovery time is predicted to be another month.

Get your point though, but for some reason my clothing including flimsy t-shirt is almost fine, while the flesh underneath was torn apart and scarred. Fabric can apparently take a fair amount or abuse.

@okp saved my ass again and is sending me a replacement motor :heart_eyes: I’m really super happy with the shop and service, amazing!

https://www.unikboards.com/

Just another example: When I ordered my motors and bindings from Unikboards it was a Sunday. On the same day I got an e-mail asking me if it’s correct because I ordered 2 motors and only 1 sensor adapter cable or if I need 2. I was stunned and impressed, very smart plus on a weekend!

In general I can only recommend to support and buy from reliable shops which is win-win for all.

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Sort out your remote dude, it sounds like it’s planning to kill you…maybe you have a loose wire? :face_with_monocle::joy:

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:rofl:

I did :face_with_monocle: but nothing loose. I changed the position of the receiver a bit, that could help.

But meanwhile I think it’s not a connection problem, wanted to change the frequency that’s why I read the manual again. I found a very scary function which is exactly the whole issue! The steez remote has a thumb throttle with integrated cruise control fuction. When you push the throttle down you lock the actual speed.

Warning for Steez remote users: When you push the thumb throttle down while coasting (throttle in middle position) the remote enters pairing mode and you loose any control! After pressing the thumb throttle again the connection is back.

I mostly loose connection when jumping on bmx tracks, now all makes sense. Because while jumping and landing I dont accelerate and it’s not hard to push down the thumb control unintentionally on landing. But now I know that a simple click brings back the control which is great compared to shutting the remote off and on which takes at least 8-10 seconds.

I really like the steez, also have the new Maytech but the control is completely different, needs throttle and brake curve adjustments, the steez not. But the throttle on the new one is much better protected when falling and it’s smaller and cheaper, only thing I miss is the leash for the wrist.

@Nowind sent me new toys (also big up @Duffman) to play, I’m a big child :laughing: A swiss army knife aka Bull Bars and some drive guards.

The bull bars are supposed as motor protectors, but are also nice on the front truck as protected camera holder (no tilting on turns!!!) or for massive offroad lights or as a handle or as motor protection plus pulling a trailer, or you could mount a bad ass rear light, too …

Definitely this Bull Bars would have saved my motor from crushing when I hit the wall backwards in skate park.

These drive guards are well printed, they hold without screws :laughing:

Before mounting I have to buy shorter screws or if I’m lazy use some washers.

I guess I’ll touch stones or curbs more often because of less ground clearance but the drive is well protected. Looking forward to see what impacts they can take.

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What are the drive guards printed in? TPU would be a good idea, it’ll absorb the impact and I think it’ll be more durable than hard plastics.

Glad you like it! Your crashes, smashes, fails and scratches were the reason to build these things.

The DriveGuards you got are from the first material testing prototype runs and made of PETG. The series DriveGuards are printed in TPU and hopefully indestructible. Check out how well they hold up and everytime you kill them, you get the next stronger evolution step until everything is bulletproof. :sunglasses:

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:joy::joy::rofl: Thanks, feel honored bro :blush:

Hehe great offer man! Let you know if I kill them and also if not :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Any chance of getting the file for printing? I’ve already destroyed/bent a DD side panel and will be avoiding certain terrain because the direct drive does not have enough ground clearance (for where I ride anyway).

I would modify it and extend it to cover the full length of the drive. The weakest part is actually the Side panel. The rest is cosmetic damage so far.

side%20panel

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Man that really sucks! :roll_eyes: Any idea why this happened exactly? Looks like sabotage :sweat_smile:.

Just a stone in the wrong place at the wrong time. It must have been wedged in between the wheel and the direct drive. All I heard was a dull clunk like I hear it so often (you can tell by the cratered POM enclosure).

What you typically find here are stones that come from mines (blast rubble, sharp edged). These are used to strengthen the roads for forest/wood cutting heavy machinery.

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Just to contribute some findings - the gears of my inner gear drive are printed from Taulman Alloy 910 and they have pretty much the same ground cleareance as the gearbox of the DD so they already hit a lot of stuff like curbs from sidewalks or just bigger stones. So far the material holds up great, there is no (permanent) deformation or visible scratches on the surface. If for some reason TPU doesn’t hold up in the long run i think some kind of Taulman Nylon blend would be the way to go.

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Same. @Nowind, can we get the .stl for the guard?

Since about 2 weeks I couldn’t ride my board but looking forward to ride again probably next weekend thanks to @okp, you rock bro! Actually my board looks like this:

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Meanwhile I had some time to buy high top shoes, I always have troubles with moving heelstraps with normal skate shoes. Also maybe I can jump higher with this Batman shoes :rofl: They were drty cheap on sale, it was so funny in the shop, they had these shoes only in adults sizes. Nobody except me was interested but almost all little kids passing by were screaming “Baaatmaaaan shoooes!”.

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