If you don’t wanna go very fast, you’re probably better off with a 10s pack that’s bigger. With a 12s much of that top end voltage is likely to be wasted. Unless you have weird gear ratios
[Wheels](Big 80mm 87mm 83mm 90mm 97mm Longboard wheel SHR78A Red Color PU Wheels High Level Soft Wheels Resistant PU Skateboard Wheels http://s.aliexpress.com/7fIJz6NR?fromSns=Copiar para a área de transferência), go with 90mm. 40/44T wheel pulley, 15T motor pulley, 15mm belt Avoid maytech if you can. Get Hobbyking ESC or even flipsky. Get the KEDA 6364 AS @pat.speed said. . You’ll probably be spend 15/20Wh/km. Means 240/320wh battery. @marcmt88 or @fottaz mount Cheap mini remote from eBay. The rest of money you save, invest in custom li-ion battery with charge only bms and charger. 30Q or 20700b.
Thanks, this confirms what i was also thinking with the 10s instead of the 12s. Another reason to do that is that I read that if you go over the max ERPM of the VESC it is possible to fry it and my 12s build theoretically goes over with no load on the wheels.
Look for the hobbyking sk8 series. Sealed motors and relatively cheap. Would look for 150-170kV motor which should rise up your torque. Get a higher c rated lipo. 60-65c min. They more expensive, but if you climp mountains often, you also need higher currents more often. With higher c rated lipos the voltage sag will keep minimal and the batteries run cooler which results in longer lifespan. For the long it will safe you some money.
When you talk about voltage sag, do you mean the voltage drop of the cell during discharges? If I understand you correctly this drop goes up with current but can be minimised by buying better C rate cells.
Every cell has a internal resistance.
The higher the resistance, the higher the voltage drop under high loads.
The higher the c-rating, the lower should be the resistance. It’s not 100% like this but manufacturers usually don’t give information about the internal resistance.
The c-Rating shows you how much current the battery can handle constantly.
You can calculate it like this
Pack size(ah)c rating = max constant current
That’s the theory…but as there is a marketing in everything which is sold now adays you can take from this value about the half. That should be your max constant current.
So 5000mah25c=125a /2 =62.5a
As you said you climp a lot of mountains I guess you can go up to 80a quite often.
This would result in getting your batteries run hotter and your voltage under load will drop for example from 3.9-3.5 in time of the load.
After you reached the top the voltage will swap back. So as long as your batteries fully charged it’s not a problem.
But when you already around the 3.7v for example you can come under 3.5 and your vesc will cut off your battery.
So on your way home you will need to walk up the mountains with low c rated batteries, with high c rated batteries you still can drive.
hope that was somehow clear and not confusing 
It’s all clear thanks a lot! I’ll go for above 50C rate cells and probably a 10S pack.
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Leave that hk motor mount alone its pretty cheapo. Hk sk8 motors are good as are the vescs and I would consider the graphene lipos from hk too they are in a different league, bit more money but if you are going to spend, spend on the battery.
@b264 soccer mum!
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One more thing, Unless uk pavements and roads have changed dramatically in the last 4 years then go for the bigger wheel option.
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I’m sure they did not change… 
I’ll need to check the clearance with my deck for the 90mm wheels but will consider, maybe with raiser pads.
For the battery I’ll also have a look at the graphene option. I’ve also spotted an 8000mah 5s option at 30C. What would you advise between more capacity or a better chemistry cell?
Discharge rate is what you want so the higher the c rating the better and the less sag you’ll get. I think the graphenes are all fairly high and unfortunately so is the cost but its the heart of your board so its money very well spent. Cheap batteries are false economy as you will upgrade them later trust me.
Wheels make a world of difference to riding comfort and if you are going to go on the pavements then bigger the better with some nice soft risers to help cushion. I run 97mm but am upgrading to 107mm for that reason and here in oz we have pretty good sidewalks and roads but the concrete beach tracks with expansion joints every 10m really work on your calves after a while. Anyway hope this helps and keep the build here with pics! good luck
Hello, I am planning on building a similar board and trying to decide on the battery. is there a big difference between 3000 MAH https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphine-3000mah-5s1p-45c.html and 5000 MAH https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphine-5000mah-5s1p-45c.html
Thank you
Your capacity will reflect the range. So 5000/3000 more range with the 5000 mAh roughly for the same rated voltage pack. Based on my build and calculations, I would get around 14km per charge.
Great. Thank you. I guess I will spend more money and get 2 of the 5000MAH 5S1P 45C.
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Just an update on my build. I have now ordered most of the parts (except the batteries):
I am still studying the battery as I am still unsure whether I go 25s or 52s 5000mAh batteries. As I am also over my budget already and will probably finish around £550, I try to find a good solution without compromising too much on C rate.
I am tempted by the graphene range from Turnigy expecting that those cells will last longer.
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Final update of the parts on my build. I went with 5S Graphene Lipo 5000mAh 45C. A bit more expensive than planned initially but worth it hopefully.
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Looking good man.
Will be a pain in the ass to charge these tho hahah
I plan to parallel charge at 0.5C on a balance charger. The case I chose is easy to open so I hope this won’t be too much hassle.
I also should have enough range for 2 to 3 days of commute.
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I’m looking forward to seeing how this works out, I just started looking at building an e skate after commuting on a Segway for the past few months but I’m tired of the Slow 10.9mph top speed and lack of easily being able to carry it.
My plan is to update as I build. I don’t have all the parts yet but will continue to post pictures and feedback on that thread.