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Deck quality/price


#1

I’m on my second longboard and I’m starting the electric conversion, but the nose is starting to delaminate next to the truck…how do you make sure a deck is quality? (I’ve bought 2 completes for $70 from Target and $50 from Amazon and this happened to both). What is a reasonable price for a nice drop deck that will handle rain and abuse?

Also any recommendations for something under $100, something switchblade shaped? Or is it reasonable to make one from scratch?


#2

This has worked well for me. Barely any flex and very solid. It’s pocket friendly too. If you search for “skateshred drop down” on this forum you’ll find quite a few people using it.



#3

Get a Landyachtz Evo or Switch 40. They are comfortable and tight. They are both reasonably priced at around 130. That’s a minimum of what you can expect to pay for any decent deck.


#4

Under $100 I would say skateshred or a deck on sale from Muirskate.

If you want real quality decks go for american wood. Pressed here in the USA.

I have a deck like the Evo it’s a drop down but custom artwork would put it around the $170 mark.


#5

How well would the shreadskate hold up to being almost completely cored out? The original plan for the Minority deck was to carve out a 25’x8’ area (17’ for batteries 12s4s 18650 and 8’ for ESC/buck converter/Arduino/BMS/plugs) and maybe some steel rebar to stabilize it


#6

Depending on the size of the veneer and the number of plays you should be able to route out some I wouldn’t go super deep just so the board doesn’t become flexy. You could also strengthen it by doing a carbon fiber or fiberglass layers


#7

How much strength would a CF enclosure add if I use a lot of bolts? Or do I need to wrap the deck for strength?


#8

If you do that, make sure the carbon or glass layer is on the bottom, not the top.


#9

Would sheet steel be any good? I’ve got enough for a whole deck and its not heavy

Assuming I don’t short the electronics


#10

Too many bolts actually weakens your deck. There is no such thing as an enclosure that will stiffen the deck, only a really strong enclosure that resists impact. If your relying on an enclosure to keep your deck rigid then you are gonna have a bad day.

A layer of CF on the bottom of the deck, after the deck is routed, will vastly increase the strength of the deck, but you need a good deck to begin with. 9 layers at least and preferable hard rock maple or similar strength material.


#11

look locally on cragislist or facebook for any of the decks @mmaner mentioned above. you can save money that way as well.

Just picked up an evo for @Sender for $50


#12

If 3/4 of the deck gets routed out until the majority of the deck is half the original thickness would CF still make a difference? The perimeter would be maybe 1.5" on each side after


#13

Sounds like you want a hummie deck. :wink:


#14

Also a good idea. If you want something flexy get a Bustin, they are plentiful on the west coast. If you want rigid get an Arbor or Landy. If you want a deck specifically for esk8 get a Red Ember, buy be prepared to pay for the quality be patient. Also, hummindexk are pre-routed and have layers of CF and are very well priced.


#15

I thought the hummie was still basically flat


#16

That’s an impossible question to answer. It requires that someone has done it using that specific deck. My guess is no as most decks are less than an inch thick, if you take 3/4 out you no longer have a deck but a very thin box.

@irdesignes is right, get a hummie deck. Pair it with a @psychotiller arc v2 enclosure.


#17

No, the hummie deck has a mild tub concave and is a drop deck, absolutely not flat.


#18

I was mistaking it for a different deck, are they only available through group buy?


#19

Has anyone done a metal reinforced deck? Not like a small plate for the trucks or a crossbar, but basically a metal frame cased in wood,


#20

I have never seen that I have seen metal decks but that is a whole different ball game and you would want aluminum.