DAVEga: Battery monitor, odometer, speedometer

Yes a complete freeze, no blinking light.

DAVEga firmware version and location did not fix it. I will try a power smoothing cap. My other theory is the wires I have extended for the buttons are picking up some RFI, like what happened with the unity. So will trim those if the cap dont work. The button wires are about 12cm long.

Sometimes there is strange artifacts when frozen that are amusing.

Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2024%2021%20PM Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2030%2019%20PM Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2026%2027%20PM Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2033%2043%20PM

Temporary mounting. :wink:

Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2028%2010%20PM Photo%20Dec%2006%2C%201%2029%2016%20PM

I much prefer the newer graphics with huge numbers.

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This is great info, thanks. Nice mounting! Lends a very professional look to the board! :smiley:

The smoothing cap is worth a shot. You could use the debug pins for it – solder it between 5V and GND.

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That’s a good shout, might do the same just incase closer to the VESC end.

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@janpom could you please post links to the GitHub files and any assembly tips at the top of the thread so they’ll be easier to find?

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@High-roller

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Real support would have provided the workaround of going back to v0.2, keeping the LCD in landscape and turning your head sideways

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Ohh yeah. I did file the corners on my DAVEga and LCD. The reason for the radius is there is concentric circles coming out from that corner, so that the o-ring groove can have a smooth corner and the wall thickness is even.

I think your print quality is quite nice!

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Soldered in a 2200uF 25v cap, was all I had on hand. Its very large for the application. Didn’t find a decent place to put it so its half way along the wires from vesc to DAVEga.

I had just a few minutes on my lunch break, did a few up and down runs on a steep hill. So far it seems to have solved the issue. Thanks! @janpom

IMG_1581

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So the reason who cause the cut out was the too long signal wires? Just to get it as noob :wink: So if you use signal wires longer than let´s say 25cm you will need an extra cap to get a stable signal.

I think it caused by unstable 5 volts from my vesc. Or noise in the 5v line. It might be the vesc, or the fact that I have soldered to the pads on the vesc directly, so it might not be the best connection, the negative pad is connected to a huge ground plane and is very difficult to get hot enough for a good solder joint. My vescs are maytech 4.12.

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Something like this? I think it can all fit. Sorry I didn’t make it the correct pixel size, though I could with a little more time.

The battery percentage could be smaller, you already have the battery bar so its just extra info.

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The FAULT is always visible? or only when a fault occures?

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Only when you get a fault. Otherwise how would you know you got one? :thinking:

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if FAULT would change to the text like DRV of ABS over Current etc. but that would be confuseing, that´s why I asked to be sure it´s not permanent.

Yeah if it could list the actual fault that would be even cooler. Not sure how easy it is to do? This is just like the minimal information, let you know to check it. I guess you can see the full fault on the second info screen or plug vesc into usb before shutting your board down.

But yeah, no red bars unless there is a fault, so its really obvious.

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Looks good. I will implement it when I find some time.

If there’s a fault, the fault code is displayed instead of the battery indicator. See here at 0:05.

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Great that it seems to help. Please do some more testing and let us know if the problem is really gone (don’t forget to use reference number 000001 :smile:). If it is, I will make space for the cap on the next version of the PCB. Seems like a good thing to have there.

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@lrdesigns Could also please test if a smaller cap would still work. The biggest I can fit between the PCB and the display would be something like this (22 uF, eletrolytic axial), so that would be 100 times lower capacity than what you’re using now.

@mmaner I tested Dave with my new focboxes today and it worked fine with both. I used the standard 3.40 FW and pretty much default settings.

Here’s how it should be correctly wired up.

  • TX-TX
  • RX-RX

IMG_1559

I’m guessing the problem is in the TX/RX wires. Please double-check for any loose connection or even bad solder joins on the PCB. I hope you can make it work! :crossed_fingers:

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I am pretty sure mine is wired up the same way. I’ve been really busy all week at works, so haven’t had time to work on this more but I will be working on it saturday. Ill double check my wiring and solder connections. Thanks

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