DAVEga firmware version and location did not fix it. I will try a power smoothing cap. My other theory is the wires I have extended for the buttons are picking up some RFI, like what happened with the unity. So will trim those if the cap dont work. The button wires are about 12cm long.
Sometimes there is strange artifacts when frozen that are amusing.
Temporary mounting.
I much prefer the newer graphics with huge numbers.
Ohh yeah. I did file the corners on my DAVEga and LCD. The reason for the radius is there is concentric circles coming out from that corner, so that the o-ring groove can have a smooth corner and the wall thickness is even.
Soldered in a 2200uF 25v cap, was all I had on hand. Its very large for the application. Didn’t find a decent place to put it so its half way along the wires from vesc to DAVEga.
I had just a few minutes on my lunch break, did a few up and down runs on a steep hill. So far it seems to have solved the issue. Thanks! @janpom
So the reason who cause the cut out was the too long signal wires?
Just to get it as noob
So if you use signal wires longer than let´s say 25cm you will need an extra cap to get a stable signal.
I think it caused by unstable 5 volts from my vesc. Or noise in the 5v line. It might be the vesc, or the fact that I have soldered to the pads on the vesc directly, so it might not be the best connection, the negative pad is connected to a huge ground plane and is very difficult to get hot enough for a good solder joint. My vescs are maytech 4.12.
Yeah if it could list the actual fault that would be even cooler. Not sure how easy it is to do? This is just like the minimal information, let you know to check it. I guess you can see the full fault on the second info screen or plug vesc into usb before shutting your board down.
But yeah, no red bars unless there is a fault, so its really obvious.
Great that it seems to help. Please do some more testing and let us know if the problem is really gone (don’t forget to use reference number 000001 ). If it is, I will make space for the cap on the next version of the PCB. Seems like a good thing to have there.
@lrdesigns Could also please test if a smaller cap would still work. The biggest I can fit between the PCB and the display would be something like this (22 uF, eletrolytic axial), so that would be 100 times lower capacity than what you’re using now.
@mmaner I tested Dave with my new focboxes today and it worked fine with both. I used the standard 3.40 FW and pretty much default settings.
Here’s how it should be correctly wired up.
TX-TX
RX-RX
I’m guessing the problem is in the TX/RX wires. Please double-check for any loose connection or even bad solder joins on the PCB. I hope you can make it work!
I am pretty sure mine is wired up the same way. I’ve been really busy all week at works, so haven’t had time to work on this more but I will be working on it saturday. Ill double check my wiring and solder connections. Thanks