Not extra pretty, but doesn’t look terrible either. If we had like 1mm of square depression in the enclosure, so that the buttons could be sunk in a little bit, that would look much better and would make installing these cheap tactile buttons very easy. Just drill two holes, stick the button legs through, add a drop of epoxy, done. WDYT, @mmaner?
BTW, if you’re wondering about the big bolt on the right hand side that’s purely for decorational purposes… and to cover the hole.
Of the three buttons which do you think would be most used? I’m only going to be using two, and I’m not too worried about resetting distance travelled for example, which was switch 1 right?
I’ve printed what I think is the final version of my enclosure design, so I’ve now uploaded it to Thingiverse.
The lcd board is soooo close to fitting. I can easily file down the corners by less than 1mm. But if you squared off the internal corners of your design (rather than rounded corners) it might accommodate a slightly greater tolerance
Here’s my take on the harness. I used a 5 conductor cable and put a JST-XH connector so that I can connect the USB adapter. Then I made an adapter from 5 pin JST-XH to 8 pin JST-PH to use for connecting to VESC. Works like a charm.
The trip reset (button 1) seems the most important to me and will become even more important; see below. The screen toggle (button 3) would be the second most used for me and the coulomb counter reset (button 2) the least used. If you charge your batteries to 100% or don’t care about the coulomb counter (set VOLTAGE_WEIGHT 1.0), then you may not need the button 2 at all.
About the button 1: I’m about to introduce the concept of session data. That’s what you’ll likely want to reset before each ride, such as:
trip distance
time elapsed
time elapsed riding
max speed
avg speed
max motor current
min motor current (=max braking current)
etc
The responsibility of the button 1 will then be to reset all the session data. In fact, it already does this, but the only session data item we currently have is the trip distance. That’s soon to be changed though.
I actually have a bunch myself and I’m located in US. If you just pay shipping, I’ll give you some. I’m not sure what size is needed since I haven’t received my packet yet.
I was just scrolling through my old videos and realized that @janpom fulfilled something that I’ve wanted for a while, just couldn’t find something that I liked. I fucking love this little thing!
Thank you, too lazy and hung over from other voices fest to switch out carbonfil to TPU, but it came out nice, I have a Proton on backorder from some time ago, this probably has everything I realistically want.
Here’s a version of the “simple horizontal layout” for those who prefer the vertical orientation. I also managed to squeeze in two more numbers. This is my favourite layout so far. I like the yellow on the speed. It will make me want to go fast in order to keep my Dave looking sexy.
It looks much better live, especially in @mmaner’s enclosure!
Today I made it through all the comments again.
Now I need only to read a bit more about how to flash the software. Which programs I need and which files from the GitHub are the once I need to select… as noob in this it looks for me always just a punch of file on one place. Which from them really necessary I didn’t understood yet
Just to confirm that I got it right.
The speed is calculated by the gearing, right?
And the gearing parameters I have to change according to what I currently use on my build in the file I upload to the arduino?
Ok so im also not really good at programming but you need the Arduino IDE Software, the davega firmware that you can download under releases on github. You also need to install the libraries that @janpom mentioned on his github readme. Once you got everything up and running you need to go to the config tab and fill in all the parameters…
The readme on github provides a pretty good overview of everything else that you need to to…
@janpom please correct me if I’m wrong
That’s soon to be changed though.
yet 
Just to confirm that I got it right.
The speed is calculated by the gearing, right?
And the gearing parameters I have to change according to what I currently use on my build in the file I upload to the arduino?