No, that one has a different pinout. It would probably work with the Dave FW, but the PCB would have to be modified.
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I did everything you said and reset EEPROM, switched to v.01, and changed UPDATE_DELAY to 250. Everything looks better now without the screwy numbers. Still not getting vesc data yet. But when I get home tonight I’ll screw around with it some more. Any other suggestions are always welcome. Thanks again!
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All should be good software wise now. If it’s still not working, that must be a hardware problem. Please check that the TX, RX wires have a good connection and are not swapped. The VESC TX goes to the pin labeled TX on the PCB (which is connected to the RX pin on the MCU).
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Sweet. Sounds good. I’ll swap the wires and check everything out. 
I got this backwards :). I assumed it would be like the HM-10 modules where they were reversed.
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OK, here’s the enclosure. If you wanna jump straight to the STL’s, here ya go.
This is the actual print of the housing, its a low res print in PETG at 100% infill with a 4mm shell, you can stand on it so it’s unlikely to break.
DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing
My renderings aren’t great, I didn’t have a lot of time as I was sneaking this in at work 
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In the next 4 images you will see DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing A (pic 1) & B Pic 2 -4). The only difference is the lock that fits in the the slot on the base. DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing A has no lock, B has a lock. The lock is for people that want to be able to remove the VeGa faster, by using only 2 screws.
These are the different bases. DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing Base A is easier to seal, has cutouts for truck mount hardware and has multiple mounting slot options (all of the mounting slots are chamfered for use with recessed screws). Base B is made for people with using X-Braces or top mount trucks. Both bases come in a version with a lock slot and without.
Here’s the links for the STL’s if you want to print it. Please post pics if you decide to print it, I love seeing my work in the wild :).
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218890
EDIT: I forgot to mention a couple of things.
1 There are slots for 3 buttons, but only 1 is through all, but the other 2 can be drilled out with a 4mm bit.
2. The housing goes to a 2mm shell at the top, this is to allow enough room for the hardware while keeping the housing as short as possible. I used a lot of filets to increase the strength.
3. I made it wider than I originally planned so the housing could cover the truck hardware and sit outside of it in case people are using recessed bolts.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I finally got it working. I think the couple screens I got are screwed. They both blink and black screen when connected (even when connected to the uno). So I’ll have to source some of the 2.0 screens from somewhere. Anyone know where to get them fast?
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@mmaner Great work! Thanks a lot. One question: How do you attach the PCBs to the enclosure? It seems the mounting holes in the top part are supposed to be only used for screwing it to the bottom part, but the screws wouldn’t go through the PCBs, correct?
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The screws pass all the way through the housing, electronics into the base. It’s pretty snug. I plan on using a rubber sheet in the bottom since I’m not using headers. I printed a complete housing last night, I’ll assemble it today and post pics.
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I like a nice rubber sheep… 
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Very nice, I was starting to design something similar.
I’ve ordered two of these which to use just below the panel, it’s going to be a tight fit. They’re quite small, 8mm panel hole.
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Those pretty long 
I wanted to use something similar they are like 1-2cm length or something similar
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Yeah, with pins it reach 15mm inside the enclosure. Might shorten or bend pins to make them fit better.
I see. The electronics gets attached to the base. Unfortunately, that doesn’t make the quick release very helpful. I need to be able to quickly remove the top part AND the electronics. This is not to complain though. It’s still a cool case. I can hopefully make some modifications to it myself. I don’t think there’s anyone else in need of the quick release. It doesn’t seem a difficult modification. I just need to attach the electronics to the top part instead of the bottom.
Have you got a step file for this?
I have all the steps in the file. 
Sorry I am blind today, where is this file?
Sorry Friday night 
’s.
I can upload the 3D on Monday. There is a thingiverse page but the files are not good. Wait to the the next version. I printed on a SLA so tolerance is + .1 to .2mm
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If you use shorter screws in the back so they only pass through the housing and electronics, then a nuton the end, you should be able to use just 2 screws in the front to secure it. I’ll look at it again and see what I can come up with. Im trying to figure out a slide lock mechanism, but its pretty difficult .
You’re kind, but please don’t spend too much time on something that only one person (me) would ever make use of.
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