DAVEga: Battery monitor, odometer, speedometer

I got these from a friend:

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It’s just a test print and the print quality is pretty bad, but it was nice to be able to get hands on it and see how well Dave fits in. I like @lrdesign’s design a lot. Simple and practical.

It would be nice to make it slightly slimmer, so that 20mm bolts can be used more easily. They work even with the current, but it’s a very tight fit.

The space for 3mm protective glass seems a complete overkill to me. Even the 2mm acrylic I have purchased seems too much. I’m actually thinking if it wouldn’t be best to go without any protective glass at all. It’s not like the display is made of sugar and if it gets damaged, it gets damaged. It’s 5 bucks.

If there’s no protective glass it can be slimmer and it would be easier for people to make. Just print it, add bolts and nuts and done. No need to cut and glue glass. The display would probably be easier to read as well.

@lrdesigns, @mmaner: Any thoughts on without protective glass?

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im thinking the same thing. the display looks tougher than i imagined it would be.

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I’ve been using headers to connect my display to the PCB since the day one. Since I’ve been developing the thing, being able to access the PCB under the display was critical for me. I think it’s actually a good feature to have for anyone. At the very least, you can easily replace the display if needs be.

The problem is that the headers add a lot to the thickness. I looked if there’s something that could be done about it and turned there’s a very simple solution. It’s a matter of removing the yellow plastic and cutting the pins.

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It then still holds in the headers and allows for thin enough fit.

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I’ll post in here when I am. Note the kits will come without the display though, so you’ll need to order the 2.0" anyway. Or you can just use the 2.2" for science. :wink: You already have a nice enclosure for it anyway.

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@SeanHacker One extra feature of the 2.2" display is that the brightness is customizable. You could add a jumper wire between the display LED pin and one of the PWM enabled pins on the MCU. Then in the Dave FW, specify that pin number here and adjust the brightness here.

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Accepting orders! :slight_smile:

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@janpom

Can you post pics of your wiring to flash firmware to the board? For some reason all I get is “avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding” when trying to flash the firmware from the programmer.

I think it would be fine depending on your usage. The goal of my design is to be waterproof and robust. 3mm was overkill, now I have it with 2mm, but 1mm might be ok. The first iteration was quite thick overall as I was guessing many of the dimensions.

I am hoping to laser cut some screens once the design is finalized. I just need to fix a friends laser cutter.

The update now is 17mm thick for the top shell and 20mm bolts do fit now.

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Guys so excited!!

I figured out a way to test the LCD without soldering it on. I have not put on the external wires yet but really wanted to see if I could get it working and try the arduino stuff. I stuffed a tissue in the end which put pressure on all the pins for temporary testing. :grin:

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I had one issue compiling the sketch at first it said “davega_display.h” was not available. After I downloaded all the files the display.h was there but it was not in the davega folder. I moved all the extra files into there and it worked. I also needed to install the drivers for the programmer.

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@SeanHacker It should be like this:

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It would be best if you could post pics of how you have it wired up and I will try to tell you what’s wrong with it.

Make sure you have the MCU and the diode correctly oriented.

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@lrdesigns Awesome work! I purchased some female header pins for the display that I will ship with the next kits so that people don’t have to use tissues. :smile: I do like the creativity though! :smile:

When you opened davega.ino for the first time, did it say something like it has to be located in a folder named davega and asked you if you wanted to move the file there?

Right. If you read the README file, the point 6 in this section in particular, that shouldn’t have caught you off guards. :wink:

Are you on a Mac by chance? If not, just ignore me. (There is a known bug that results in that error. Super frustrating)

I’m not aware of that bug. I’m on a Mac and I have never seen the error with a correct set up. (I have actually seen it many times but always for a good reason. :smile:)

I forget what the explanation was but I cannot flash arduinos from my 2017 mac (2010 works fine).

From a full OS reinstall with neither the online ide or the full ide able to talk to various arduinos with correct settings… Others do share the bug but it doesn’t appear to be big enough to require a fix.

Just figured I’d ask.

Edit----

Also have received the PCB’s Yesterday. Thanks!! (figured I’d give this post some value lol)

That’s good to know. Thanks for the info. Hopefully that’s not the case for @SeanHacker since he did manage to install the FW to his Arduino UNO before.

Or did you mean flashing as when using the Arduino as ISP?

No problem. Only picture I have on hand until I get home tonight. Hopefully everything’s oriented correctly.

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Yes, that looks good. Could you try connecting the display using @lrdesigns’ tissue trick :smile: and see if anything shows up on the display when you power it on?

You can power it on with the USB-UART adapter or even with your Arduino. Just connect the GND and +5V using jumper wires.

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@SeanHacker You seem to have quite a lot of solder on the MCU pins. Please double-check that nothing is shorted there.

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Yep. I was pretty heavy handed and partially drunk when I soldered this board in the picture. Lol. When I get home I have another one that’s a lot better. I’ll check everything when I get home tonight. Everything powered on, it showed white screen and I kept getting that error when trying to upload. Total noob at this so I’m pretty sure its user error my first time around. :wink:

@SeanHacker Only now I realized you don’t have the MCU from me so it hasn’t been pre-programmed. The display obviously can’t show anything but white screen then. Did the MCU come with the bootloader or have you burnt the bootloader yourself? If not, you won’t be able to program it. Unfortunately, if it’s already soldered on the PCB, you will have hard time burning the bootloader. It’s not impossible, but I’m afraid it will be some hassle.

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