Will these also be available like plug and play? I wouldn’t trust myself to assemble such a kit…
IMO, what you have is just about the right display size for the remote and I like your GUI. Adding speed would be a nice feature. Maybe you could get rid of the “POWER” label and move the wifi and headlight indicators to that area. You could get rid of the small battery indicator, which is redundant. Then you have the right side of the display free for more info.
Note that you don’t need to redraw the full display. You can only update what changed (e.g. speed). That way you can do much faster refresh rate. That’s what I do on VeGa. Redrawing everything each time wouldn’t be feasible.
Yes, I can assemble a few. It doesn’t take much time and I kinda enjoy doing it. Note that you’ll still need to do the wiring to the VESC so some soldering to the PCB is probably inevitable.
At any rate, as I said before, the first batch is meant for those who don’t mind to be beta testers. There will likely be problems that will require some tweaking. If you want a plug-and-play version, it’s best if you wait a little bit.
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I have a button and u can switch through 4 different views with dirfferent informations. The section “Power” is the most important one for me at the moment because of my battery issues. There is also a long bar above the trigger jndicator I can’t see at the moment, because there is nothing connected.
Thanks for the tip with updating just sections who changed. I already into this… I expect them around -10ms. But 60ms total is allready perfect. At the beginning I was at around 130ms.
But I am still seachring for a better display… maybe colored or with much more brightness liebe a Sharp reflective display from Adafruit. Any suggestions there?
Some thoughts about wiring things up. Ideally, we would have a single cable going out of DaVeGa that we can connect either to VESC or to the USB-UART adapter for programming.
There are 5 pins on VeGa:
- 5V
- GND
- TX
- RX
- DRT
The VESC connects to the first 4. The USB connects to all.
Here’s the pinout of the devices to be wired up (for the VESC, this is how my ESCapes look like; I think that other VESC derivatives have a different pin order, but that doesn’t really matter):
Now, one option is to simply split 4 wires and add two connectors. That’s what I have done here. But, it’s pretty annoying having to split 4 wires and you end up with the dupont connector dangling around all the time when it’s only used rarely.
An alternative would be to make an adapter. It’s natural to go from more wires to fewer wires, i.e. from USB to VESC. But, that wouldn’t be very reliable since the dupont connectors tend to slide off. Plus, the device that’s plugged-in most of the time (the VESC) would go in via an adapter. Not ideal.
We can go the other way around, but that means the DTR wire would need to be separate. It’s not a problem to connect the 6 pin USB-UART to two (1+5 pin) dupont connectors. This would work just fine. We would end up with only a 1 pin dangling connector. No Y-splits needed.
An even better option would be to connect all 5 VeGa pins to the VESC and then make a simple adapter to the 6 pin dupont without the stand-alone wire for DTR. I think that it should be OK to connect the DTR to one of the VESC’s ADC pins. DTR is high (5V) in a normal state, but I believe the ADC pins are not used for anything by default. The only problem would be if the ADC is pulled low since that would reset the VeGa, but that shouldn’t happen. Could someone with a better knowledge of the VESC HW please confirm this? @Kug3lis maybe? Thanks! I know this is a hackish solution, but it seems the simplest and most elegant.
Last but not least, it’s not necessary to connect the DTR at all. Then we would need an extra button for resetting VeGa manually. It’s not hard to reset manually at the right moment when updating the FW. Still, it’s an extra button.
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After more thinking, we could just do this:
… but use JST XH instead of the dupont. The JST won’t slide off and 2.54mm spaced pins of the USB-UART can be plugged into a female JST XH directly. It would still mean the VESC goes in via an adapter, but I guess that’s fine.
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For you guys out there on that retarded rollercoaster. 
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I’m just experimenting stuff with Arduinos and you clearly mastered the thing already. This is really inspiring as a creator and dev. Thanks for sharing everything with us!
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Thanks
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This makes it official- Let the rebranding begin!
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I will design the logo guys.
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I’m still not sure if I really like DaVeGa. It sounds kinda weird. In fact, I don’t even know what the correct pronunciation is. That’s something we should thoroughly discuss. Is it DaVeGa like “the vega” or is it more like “dave ga”? Or is it something completely different? @brenternet, what do your people say?
@pixelsilva A logo would be great! I propose something minimalistic. I like minimalism. Here’s a draft to get you started.
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You took my words from my mouth! Yes, is gonna be minimalistic. You can clearly differentiate DAVE from VeGa thats for sure. I’ll be back later…
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I think that it should officially be known (and pronnounced) as Da- VeGa, but amongst us, we would know it as Dave-ga Our own little inside joke
But of course, we need to hear from @brenternet’s people
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They are napping at the moment but I’ll run it past them after paw patrol tomorrow morning.
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If you update the firmware, say some new stuff comes out or bug fix etc, will you lose the total distance number?
Edit, you already thought of that. Thanks!
// Changing the EEPROM_MAGIC_VALUE (to any value different from the current, e.g. 42 -> 43) will reset // the EEPROM to the values defined below. This is especially handy for pre-setting the total distance // traveled (EEPROM_INIT_VALUE_TOTAL_DISTANCE). #define EEPROM_MAGIC_VALUE 42 // [1, 255]
#define EEPROM_INIT_VALUE_VOLTS 0 #define EEPROM_INIT_VALUE_MAH_SPENT 0 #define EEPROM_INIT_VALUE_TRIP_DISTANCE 0 // meters #define EEPROM_INIT_VALUE_TOTAL_DISTANCE 0 // meters
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