Darth Icarus | Loaded Icarus | 10s4p | Sound System | Gummies | Psycho Mounts

Riptide Backing plates and Atopic precision cups showed up…

Installed

And some new gloves

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Looking good! Whats the putpose of the backing plates? Is it for if you are running a drop through deck in top mount config?

What I really want for my icarus is a peice For the top of the deck that would bolt in and cover the hole - does such a thing exist off the shelf? Or would it be a 3D print job?

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Hey there, thanks! The backing plates are for when you run drop through, normally the trucks are above the deck and the deck hangs below, so all your and the decks weight rests on the nuts. The backing plates allow you to “sandwich” the deck in metal to give it more meat/surface area so over time the mounting holes/drop through cutt out doesn’t break.

As far as a plate for the top when top mounting the trucks on a drop through board… probably a 3d print or hand cut plate would do the truck

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Any updates on the enclosure(s)? No rush, just excited to see how things are going.

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So been thinking about how to install lights on this build. I’ve gone ahead and made the front mount. Used the heads off of some zoomable XML t6 flashlights that are pressed into tpu mounts and will be wired in series to a meanwell ldd-1000h along with tail lights once I figure them out.

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Figured I’d add how I made them here.

Start off with a couple XML T6 Tactical Zoomable flashlights, with the heads removed. These are 3d printed TPU mounts I made slightly smaller then the heads measurements then heated and pressed in.

The heads have been removed and the drivers removed and wired direct to the cree LED

Joined the two mounts

Press in the heads to the desired depth and clock the led diodes to be the same

Glue the heads and wiring in place

Wire the two in series and make fake rears from superglued tape for easy maintenance

Paint black

Drill pilot holes through the TPU mounts into the aluminum heads, secure with a lock washer and screws. The TPU will act like a shock pad does for trucks and allow the mount to flex and keep the hardware tight.

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So been working with my buddy @SORRENTINO. Still prototyping with HDPE. But we’ve got the SurfRodz sleeve nailed down and square and within 0.005 tolerance. Now to start on a few versions of the plate, and make the axle press.

The goal is to utilize no set screws or drilling of the precision trucks… Gonna be making the ‘key’ next essentially the key will be a bearing spacer with a body to press the mount onto the taper off the truck creating a “pressed fit”, with access to the axle set screws. So literally no alignment, slap it on, screw in the axle, set the axle set screws and your done.

@Eboosted is also making great progress on the enclosures. Everyone looking to get an icarus enclosure… Be prepared for sexy looking enclosure to “match” the Icarus’s unique style

Almost the end of January should be receiving the Gummies from @trampa soon too!

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some cool looking kit dude, I’ve thought about using some surfrodz my self but are not enamored by the mount options… I see you are going for precision cups straight up, have you ridden surfrodz rkp’s much before? are you running them roadside front and back or just the back?

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Hey @Cobber !

Yep all my boards have precision cups(Brand: Atopic - due to the inner sleeve that keeps the washer in place, no other precision cups has this…just top hats from other brands). I run them front and rear.

PS the grit all over is because I pack everything with wax for silence :space_invader:

I’ve been on and off riding these surfrodz when they’re not being used for prototyping. Threw some 74mm blood orange 82a Morgan pros on them for a little freeride. Trucks feel like heaven compared to anything else I’ve tried(I’ve tried Ronin and caliber precisions). The flipable hanger to adjust the rake is awesome as the calibers and ronin’s didn’t have this, or the axle options. Either way I have two sets of 176mm with 50mm axles on the way for my analog boards, and another set of 200s on the way for the Evo. I really really like how they respond. :smiley:

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cool, I have a couple sets of aera’s (k4 & k5). I put some atopic sleeved flat washers on my k4’s (50/50) roadside (93a boardside, 90a roadside barrels. Symmetrical setup I kick around town on a rayne reaper). I was talking to michi about bushing setups he was using and he kept telling me I was going to ruin my trucks? or the kingpins at least? aera king pins are only $2.50… but so far have been fine. Have you noticed much wear?

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What about the bushings would impact kingpin longevity?

the precision cnc machined washer sleeve does not have much play to the kingpin (that is the point of using them). Michi felt it would be too tight on a precision truck with all round machined tollerances and it would wear a groove in the kingpin and then the trucks would not perform…

Ahh, well that could only really happen if the washer is harder than the kingpin…I don’t think that’s the case If anything the washer should wear

I haven’t noticed much wear or ever even broken a kingpin…I ran these on some caliber2s and Paris as well over a year. Still tight around the kingpins.

It’s good practice to replace the kingpins once a year anyway… but I love the restriction these cups give compared to regular or other precision cups, as I can run super soft bushings and have zero slop and throw the board out.

I understand the concern as it puts more pressure on the kingpin…but so do spherical bearings for the hangar hole…

But I do see a slight amount of “compression wear” on the bushings when removed from the cups(a short ring that was pressed into the cup)…but that is normal and hasn’t really affected bushings life as I only tightened my kingpins to the point I can barely spin the boardside bushings with my fingers.

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no you have hardened steel v aluminium… the steel polishes up where the sleeve moves but that is it for me thus far & I commute every day on that deck.

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Cool, won’t waste any neurons worrying about it :wink:

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Kingpins are hardened steel

These washers are 916 stainless. So they are softer… But neither have polished any of my previous kingpins or grooved. And the stainless hasn’t deformed.

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916 you say… well there you go. Still softer

I always find them a nightmare to pull apart you got any tricks to separate bushing-atopic washer Decky?

Yea…

Ever seen a garlic cleaner… It’s a rubber thingy you put garlic in and roll it and it cleans the peels off for you…

I just slide the bushing in and grab it

If the washer is off the kingpin I just pry the washer off while holding it in that thing with my nails

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@Cobber and one more…but the threads can ruin your bushings doing it alot…but if no garlic thingy

Halfway on the kingpin pop it off like you’d use the axle to pop out bearings without one of these

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