Darth Icarus | Loaded Icarus | 10s4p | Sound System | Gummies | Psycho Mounts

Since this is an expensive build, you could 3D print the enclosure, SLS using shapeways, the print they use for white parts is big enough, its going to be 200 plus dollars, but you can make an ultra custom enclosure that is also slightly flexible

Haha yeah…just I can never find good bearings that aren’t half the cost of the motors after shipping. So the laziest outweighs the effort of finding good NSK bearings, waiting for them, replacing them… or buy a motor and don’t wait… Or decrease the fulcrum length by the thickness of the mount by adding a bearing…

Yea! I’m hoping to keep maintenance lower over the lifetime of the board.

Haha you should look at thier blog it’s got some interesting ideas for reliability factors.

Let’s hope I have the mini mill tuned enough to not skip any steps :wink:

Thanks for your thoughts @PXSS

Ya know…I printed the enclosures for my last board. While I love shapeways nylon. I wouldn’t ever print one again. I’ll probably end up making a mold and laying glass.

That works well for the room you have to work with.

1 Like

Why you say that? Did you have any problems or just not worth? Mine I printed at home in parts and glued together, lots of curling that had to be corrected with a heat gun and big time spent sanding and painting, but if everything’s works ok I was thinking in sending to them to print at higher quality

1 Like

I printed in PETG, it’s still flexible with the deck, but on flexy decks eventually the layer bonds break and the enclosures become squeaky. If I did another it would still be PETG or Nylon…maybe even TPU…but would be almost impossible to print a full board enclosure in TPU…

I’d stay away from PLA and ABS filaments for enclosures too.

1 Like

Thanks, I will think about it, I’m using abs since my printer can’t handle nylon or other materials that would be better, let’s see how it handle

Another option would be make the sides that attach to the board 3D printed and the top an aluminum or carbon fiber sheet, at least this is my plan in case my enclosure fails miserably

a few clarifying videos on Surf Rodz (& Ideesz) trucks10 mm and 8 mm width interchangable axles (& bearings)…

1 Like

@Deckoz this is super sick! You’re nuts and i love it! Army chance you’d build extra mounts for the surf rodz rkp trucks? I got em. Trying to figure out how I’ll implement them.

1 Like

I will have a mini mill… And more then likely will sell them if there’s interest. But there’s a handful of us here that are going to be building on SurfRodz as well.

3 Likes

Here they are. 10mm Shoulder x 80mm Shoulder Length x M8-1.25 Black Oxide Class 12.9 Alloy Steel Socket Shoulder Bolt

4 Likes

Just reading the spec list I think this might be really really hard… You can check out my build thread in which I used the icarus. I went for a 10s4p setup and the usable room for application is really tight. However I was only using 1 layer of cells. You might be able to stack 2 layers but it will still be hard. Plus it might look extremely chunky.

Hey man I saw your build thread. Loved it, it’s what drove me to want an Icarus. However… The thickness doesn’t bother me, as this build is mostly function over aesthetics. I’ll see how I feel after I start shaping foam.

Cool. I’ll be watching to see how those mounts work out.

1 Like

Do you shape foam for a fiberglass mold plug? If so, what do you use to seal it before waxing and mold making? I am shaping a plug from foam (So much easier than wood… in someways). I ordered this duratec surface primer to hopefully seal the plug so I can polish,wax it, and make it rigid enough for vaccum bagging.

https://compositeenvisions.com/707-002-duratec-grey-surface-primer-1332%3Aec3451e9959a312f045cc07163b5ceea.html?zenid=7e03152a75955a342ab15c62a75921f2

Use Bondo to fill it til smooth. Then spray it with gelcoat. Sand and polish the gelcoat to a finish. Then wax the snot out of it for a few days. Spray it with pva mold release. Then gelcoat and apply fiberglass. Your foam part that was originally bondo’d and gelcoated is essentially a positive buck…

Note I said spray the part with gelcoat to make a nice finish like painting

And then the later part applying gelcoat is done with a brush and thick as recommended by the container…

1 Like

Most of the gelcoats I see don’t air dry. Did you get something like Duratec hi gloss additive to in a 50/50 blend to get it to air dry? Or? am I completely missing something (likely :smiley:)

https://compositeenvisions.com/904-001-duratec-clear-hi-gloss-additive-1-gal-1345.html?zenid=7e03152a75955a342ab15c62a75921f2

Ya know that catalyst you put in the resin?.. Put that catalyst in the gelcoat and put it in a sprayer designed for resins :wink:

Yeah, gotcha. I’m trying to do this sans sprayer. I guess your using a gelcoat with a wax additive so it will air cure.? I’m sorry if these are dumb questions, :wink:

Little update: So I purchased a Loaded Icarus and a Landyachtz Evo that has been sent to @Eboosted to design some custom enclosures. Looking forward to seeing what Alan comes up with. So I’ll be holding off on building the battery until after I receive the enclosures.

Also look what has shown up.

  • 50T SuperStar pulleys @Nowind
  • Focboxes after having an invalid tracking number for a month
  • 13S Micro BMS for charging/balance only
  • Photon Remote @Wajdi

So now just waiting on

  • Gummies & Superstars from @trampa
  • enclosure from @Eboosted
  • @SORRENTINO to finish the motor mount design
  • Me to finish building the Mini Mill CNC to cut the motor mounts
12 Likes

So close yet so far lol…

9 Likes