I just realized I may not need the backing plates…
I’ll test fit them when I receive them as I’d prefer not to sink the hardware washers into the board…but for now this works for mock up purposes…the washers on the bottom will be a backing plate instead. Before the nose guard and nut
Looking good! Whats the putpose of the backing plates? Is it for if you are running a drop through deck in top mount config?
What I really want for my icarus is a peice
For the top of the deck that would bolt in and cover the hole - does such a thing exist off the shelf? Or would it be a 3D print job?
Hey there, thanks! The backing plates are for when you run drop through, normally the trucks are above the deck and the deck hangs below, so all your and the decks weight rests on the nuts. The backing plates allow you to “sandwich” the deck in metal to give it more meat/surface area so over time the mounting holes/drop through cutt out doesn’t break.
As far as a plate for the top when top mounting the trucks on a drop through board… probably a 3d print or hand cut plate would do the truck
So been thinking about how to install lights on this build. I’ve gone ahead and made the front mount. Used the heads off of some zoomable XML t6 flashlights that are pressed into tpu mounts and will be wired in series to a meanwell ldd-1000h along with tail lights once I figure them out.
Start off with a couple XML T6 Tactical Zoomable flashlights, with the heads removed. These are 3d printed TPU mounts I made slightly smaller then the heads measurements then heated and pressed in.
Drill pilot holes through the TPU mounts into the aluminum heads, secure with a lock washer and screws. The TPU will act like a shock pad does for trucks and allow the mount to flex and keep the hardware tight.
So been working with my buddy @SORRENTINO. Still prototyping with HDPE. But we’ve got the SurfRodz sleeve nailed down and square and within 0.005 tolerance. Now to start on a few versions of the plate, and make the axle press.
The goal is to utilize no set screws or drilling of the precision trucks… Gonna be making the ‘key’ next essentially the key will be a bearing spacer with a body to press the mount onto the taper off the truck creating a “pressed fit”, with access to the axle set screws. So literally no alignment, slap it on, screw in the axle, set the axle set screws and your done.
@Eboosted is also making great progress on the enclosures. Everyone looking to get an icarus enclosure… Be prepared for sexy looking enclosure to “match” the Icarus’s unique style
Almost the end of January should be receiving the Gummies from @trampa soon too!
some cool looking kit dude, I’ve thought about using some surfrodz my self but are not enamored by the mount options…
I see you are going for precision cups straight up, have you ridden surfrodz rkp’s much before?
are you running them roadside front and back or just the back?
Yep all my boards have precision cups(Brand: Atopic - due to the inner sleeve that keeps the washer in place, no other precision cups has this…just top hats from other brands). I run them front and rear.
PS the grit all over is because I pack everything with wax for silence
I’ve been on and off riding these surfrodz when they’re not being used for prototyping. Threw some 74mm blood orange 82a Morgan pros on them for a little freeride. Trucks feel like heaven compared to anything else I’ve tried(I’ve tried Ronin and caliber precisions). The flipable hanger to adjust the rake is awesome as the calibers and ronin’s didn’t have this, or the axle options. Either way I have two sets of 176mm with 50mm axles on the way for my analog boards, and another set of 200s on the way for the Evo. I really really like how they respond.
cool, I have a couple sets of aera’s (k4 & k5). I put some atopic sleeved flat washers on my k4’s (50/50) roadside (93a boardside, 90a roadside barrels. Symmetrical setup I kick around town on a rayne reaper).
I was talking to michi about bushing setups he was using and he kept telling me I was going to ruin my trucks? or the kingpins at least?
aera king pins are only $2.50… but so far have been fine. Have you noticed much wear?
the precision cnc machined washer sleeve does not have much play to the kingpin (that is the point of using them). Michi felt it would be too tight on a precision truck with all round machined tollerances and it would wear a groove in the kingpin and then the trucks would not perform…
I haven’t noticed much wear or ever even broken a kingpin…I ran these on some caliber2s and Paris as well over a year. Still tight around the kingpins.
It’s good practice to replace the kingpins once a year anyway… but I love the restriction these cups give compared to regular or other precision cups, as I can run super soft bushings and have zero slop and throw the board out.
I understand the concern as it puts more pressure on the kingpin…but so do spherical bearings for the hangar hole…
But I do see a slight amount of “compression wear” on the bushings when removed from the cups(a short ring that was pressed into the cup)…but that is normal and hasn’t really affected bushings life as I only tightened my kingpins to the point I can barely spin the boardside bushings with my fingers.
no you have hardened steel v aluminium…
the steel polishes up where the sleeve moves but that is it for me thus far & I commute every day on that deck.
These washers are 916 stainless. So they are softer… But neither have polished any of my previous kingpins or grooved. And the stainless hasn’t deformed.