Lip is available as an option 
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What I have experienced is that my nylon 3D printed pulleys have outlasted my aluminum pulleys. But, that is just my experience.
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Thats interesting. What type of nylon was used, Taulman 910 or?
This is what I use: http://www.microcenter.com/product/485160/175mm_Natural_Nylon_3d_Printer_Filament_-05kg_Spool(11_lbs) I also recently tried the Gizmo Dorks nylon filament. At the same settings, the layers would not adhere.
Contact point with the thane and pulley is increased by extended flange. Optional lip can also be added for small size pulley
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Pulleys for MBS 100mm
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I’ll be the test pilot for those babies. 
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Has anyone buy one to try out? Really interested in this but not sure how many to get yet.
I personally dont like them. I bought a set of 35t for kegels. It presses against a lot of thane on both sides. Very difficult to properly align and requires filing for caliber 2 trucks.
The newly modified pulleys have a larger bore hole to clear the truck’s hanger. The pulleys are design to sit on the thane, it’s not necessary to overly tighten the bolts. Not sure what you meant by difficulty in aligning the pulley, I tested them on TB, Caliber, Paris with ABEC, Kegal, MBS, and clones, they went in with ease.
Hmm I wonder why people make bolt through pulleys when slide in pullies are so easy to change gear ratios on the fly or just change your wheels no mucking about required.
I have 3d printed 33t pullies from @longhairedboy that get my board to 44mph and I’m currently running old Enertion stock of the 36t slip on pullies.
If you make slip on pullies then I’ll buy more of the cause changing gear ratios can be fun.
Bolt through left. Slip on right. For illistration purposes.
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Please forgive my possibly noonish question: is it bad to have the pulley press against the thane?
I don’t know why the big fuss about pulley pressing against the thane. The whole circumference of the pulley is evenly laid on the thane which distributed the pulling force around it when you tighten the bolts.
having slip on pulleys minimize installation time but again, how often do you really change out gear ratio? To machine slip on pulleys is not difficult but require building different fixture and jigs for work-holding which translate to $$$.
These pulleys are designed in CAD for specific type of wheels and machine on CNC mill with much higher tolerance than you ever need for esk8 parts. Alignment would not be an issue.
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Well because the urathane compresses on the bottom and more so when cornering and since the pully is resting on the thane it puts alot of stress on the pullies. It may be fine but people are unwilling to risk their bodies on something they know is not right.
The pulley is 19mm or 3/4" solid block of acetal delrin which are used extensively in industrial gearing, bearing,… I doubt it very much a skateboarder weight can put any amount of stress on it.
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Because it’s extremely hard to get it aligned properly and it does not distribute force properly. You have to remember that thane is not hard, the best contact is with the hard plastic of the wheel hub.
I’m usually not one to comment on other sellers posts, but I’m not sure you fully understand the faults with these pulleys, and your customers are pointing them out as well.
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I like my stuff to press hard against that thane. Nice and snug.
One of the biggest mistakes people make it trying to get the pulley really frikkin tight before balancing it. The best method is to get it snug, balanced, then back out each bolt 1 at a time and apply loktite. Then re-balance.
It’s a lot easier when you don’t try to make the pulley sink I to the Thane, snug with no movement is all you need. Maybe 15 lbs of torque.
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