Custom urethane parts manufacturing of your ideas

Update on the Tunnel Riser project. We plan on printing 6 male models to make the mold from and the quality we are looking for is described here: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/frosted-detail-plastic
The cost to do this is $45.00 each X 6 = $270.00. Does anyone here have access to this quality at a lower price? Here is a shot of the plate we mount the parts to then 4 walls and we pour the tooling compound over it to make the female mold to make the parts.

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Put me down for one please!

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I did something like this in ABS over a year ago.

image

http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-use-pm/2992/1037?u=mmaner

You are going to want at least a 2 mm filet on all the edges where the wire touches. Otherwise it will eventually eat the silicon jacket off the wire. FOund out the hard way :).

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The smallest radius touching the wires is 4.5mm

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cool, it appears much smaller in the drawing. just figured I’d let you know. good luck.

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I appreciate the help, thank you!

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Any update on these risers? I wasnt some in my life :wink:

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Hey Alpha, I’ve been meaning to try to make an Eskate motor that has Urethane windings instead of copper.

I think this will help make motors lighter and waterproof.

Please advise.

Edit: Sorry, joke.

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What? :expressionless::expressionless::expressionless::expressionless:

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Um, really? thane instead of copper? :thinking:

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I have a 4wd hub board that has thane motors, it’s pretty cool. Only limitation it has is it doesn’t go up hill as fast as it goes down :joy:

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Urethane is not very conductive so this sentence contradicts itself. Please re-evaluate what you have just typed.

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It has carbon nanotube magic space conduction technology.

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I will work on that, in the mean time I have an app for you phone that will make it waterproof…

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What about riptide phone covers…or even better thin, soft PU covers for popular controllers giving a bit more h2o protection?

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Since Riot is not longer making these, please make them… I have to manually make my own whenever I need a set for one of my boards.

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I am interested in what they are for? From what I am looking at, they plug the hanger space and fill the primary bushing seat so another bushing will not sit where it should. I imagine you use a shorter bushing roadside like a flipped StreetFatCone or StreetChubby to fit the secondary seat to compensate for the the reduced clearance? What is the benefit?

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I chop my baseplates to accommodate the plug. The plug basically does the same job as your APS insert bushings. The ‘disk’ for my DIYot plugs are thick in order to raise the bushing out of the seat, basically creating a seatless boardside bushing seat which enables massive amounts of lean. Obviously, like an insert bushing, the DIYot plug makes these trucks turn extremely precise and near impervious to torque steer.

The end result is akin to what a Ronin would feel like if it was rakeless.

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OK, PM me with a drawing and projected volume and I will let you know what it will take to make it happen

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Sweet. I also want to sell custom colored RipTide APS bushings later on down the road, hopefully we can get something going.

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