Custom Plywood Deck with Lid for Jacob Hubs

Not sure what the right thing to do is now. Remove more material? Also I would like some ideas for the motor cable routing. Just drill some holes in the enclosure part or do @longhairedboy style channels on top?

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i think you know what i would do. lol

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I see what you’re saying. But that would be assuming it only has compression acting on it. If there is any bit of bouncing you introduced tension so it’s not something you can do without. I still agree both sides are the best. i just think for me the jury is still out on a top lamination as being an actual structural feature and not just moot.

If anyone else has some insight on the matter I would love to hear it.

This looks fantastic!!!

Can you take a pic of the side of the board. This thing is Inspiring!

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How much did it cost you to CNC and the material costs?

I just want to know if i am getting ripped off or not by this manufacturer

I could cnc that for about 50$ + materials

I got a quote 67$ inc materials

That’s a very fair price.

All right thanks is there any other materials I should consider other than plywood

if you are a street skater, than you would know a few companies have been playing around with carbon fiber on decks. Girl/Chocolate skateboards have been making these decks they call “pop secret” with a layer of carbon fiber on the top, and I have ridden at at least 20 of them over the last year or so. They do have a bit better of a pop (which is irrelevant on an eboard), but they also are much harder to snap in half. Many times, I have stomped nose and middle of the board down this massive 3 block hubba at my local skate park, and most of the time, it doesn’t break. When I skate blank decks or even other pro decks without the carbon fiber on top, they break every time when I stop stomp nose and middle of the board.

So from my experience, the carbon fiber on the top does add strength. I get the whole tension/compression force dynamic, but it does have an effect still.

My 2 cents in this though is that you shouldn’t “need” to re-enforce the board with composite materials. I’ve found that if you press your own deck with veneers, not only can you put whatever concave you want into the deck, but you can achieve incredible strength.

If your doing this for just 1 or 2 boards for your self, this is very easy to do with a roar rocket vacuum press kit. Total cost would be around $200 USD for all the tools you need and if you buy a few decks worth of wood, around $50 per deck in wood and another $30 in glue per board.

It was a favor - so basically I paid nothing. 67$ however sounds very cheap actually.

Thanks man , I want to make some modifications like power switch, charging ports some wiring cutouts

think this is close to a myth. tensile vs. compressive strength of epoxy fiberglass composite is pretty much identical. for carbon its midly in favour for tensile strength. so if you put it top or bottom wont matter very much!

Made a little progress today. I decided that I don’t want to glue the enclosure to the deck as I might need to have full access later on and also just want that flexibility. I used screwed inserts and countersunk screws. Since my goal is maximum stealth I thought about how to hide the motor wires. Decided on drilling a hole in the truck baseplate. Next is probably going to be a channel on the bottom of the deck in which the wires are placed. The idea is then to cover that channel with a 3mm thick carbon fiber plate by sinking it into the deck (similar to the lid on top) and use the existing screws from enclosure and truck to hold it in place. That way I can still access the wires and the carbon fiber could compensate the loss of wood in the deck.

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this will be a kick ass !!! URO style !

One step closer

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A bit to fat for my taste, but cool project :slight_smile:

This is awesome. Thanks for posting all these pics. Can you tell me how much the board weights with batteries ?