I wouldn’t suggest flying at all with a home made battery back, regardless of size. Highly doubtful they would let it through. But, I would suggest you start your own topic for that.
Here is a top I made for nickel strip discussion as well:
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Ship the board to your destination and then fly there to pick it up
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…or ship the battery …and fly with the board, no?
I’d just prefer to ride out of where you pick it up rather than having to assemble it first
I was thinking the other day…what if there was an esk8 App that you just use every time you arrive into another country and you’ll get access to this universal battery pack that every Eskater ln the world could use?? Like a standarized battery size, and that all DIY projects will consider this size into their builds. It will be like an Airbnb or Scoot renting kind of service for the Esk8 community around the world.
There was a forum member in NYC looking to rent batteries on here a whilr back.
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Yep was me 
Didn’t get much traction so I dropped the idea
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Thanks for the responses guys! I had thought of removing the battery for air travel and purchasing a second one when I land in Cali, but I will likely be taking multiple flights within the country, this makes it a big hassle.
I also want the cells reduced in size so that I can easily swap the batteries on the go when riding in my home city, that way I can keep an extra couple of batteries in my backpack and extend my range
The other alternative is to splash out and buy a boosted board, but they emailed me and said their extended range batteries are not safe for air travel, and they do not sell their standard batteries separately - they should consider doing this as I would think they would sell out!!
I’m back on the road boys.
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Well the Evolve ESC finally took a dump a couple of weeks ago. One of the motors stopped working on my ride home, and considering it was the one i beat the pulley onto with a hammer(well supported the shaft but still…) I figured the motor was gone: new motor = still no go. BAD ESC. I must say it did ALOT of miles for me(thousands), and was solid up until now.
So… I did a thing 
EDIT: Don’t worry I’m printing a nice cover to go over that mess of wiring underneath and secure my loop key. 
Oh, and I must say the throttle curve on the Focbox with mini remote is a big improvement. With the extra 15 amps I can now put to the motors its a bit quicker too(80A vs 65A on old evolve ESC).
I also noticed that the motors are MUCH MUCH cooler after long rides, and the FOCBOX’s are barely warm to the touch, they don’t even break a sweat. After my rides to work on the old ESC the motors would be almost too hot to touch(as was the ESC heat sync).
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Why did you get rid of the stock power switch?
Stock switch has 4 wires that plug directly into the old motor controller. It’s like an electronic switch that sends an open/closed signal to the ESC(which probably uses a mosfet as a switch or something).
It’s definitely not rated to have 80 amps running directly through it.
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oh interesting. I thought it was a standard latching switch (button) that could be connected to an anti spark switch.
It is that. I’m not sure how trustworthy the latching part is. Replacing it is a good move.
You are correct it can be connected to an anti-spark PCB, but I didn’t want to get one of those. I feel they are unreliable(iv’e read through a ton of threads).
I feel like the loop key is unmatched in reliability and trustworthiness.
Whenever the fatboy antispark comes out I might give it a try, but until now I don’t trust them either. Loopkey for the win
BMS with built in switch have been the most reliable for me.
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@b264 I have been keeping an eye on that.
@Battosaii That’s nice too because it will save you some build space as well. When I install a BMS i’ll try to look for one with a switch.
What I am really waiting for is an all in one esk8 solution to come out. BMS/ESC all built into 1 easy to use PCB unit.
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that would be great, but what about the software to run it?
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