And here’s the updated version
- 5 magnets on each side
- 2 holes on each side for clevis pins
To-do:
- holes for balance charging port and xt60
- hole for XT90 switch
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Sweeeeeeeeeeetnesssssa
New version I made it so that there’s a smaller part (the front) where all the cables will stay, and which will stay permanently connected to the deck, and a removable lid, that can be secured by either magnets OR clevis pins. I’m printing the first front part now. The connectors are: XT60 and 6S balance charge connector.
To-do -voltmeter -add curved deck outline so there’s no gap when the enclosure is sitting close to the deck
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Do you use Solidworks? Sorry if you have already said this.
No, using Fusion 360.
Current iteration. Now with space for a voltmeter, an XT60 port to charge and connect to VESC, a 6s balance port, and an XT90 loop. I’m printing the larger piece now and will test fit.
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Very cool, I also am working on a 3d printed enclosure (Not nearly as well designed). I solved the delamination issue with some ABS sludge on the heated bed, (mix of acetone and ABS filament). Magnets are very cool solution to mounting. Currently I am using threaded inserts that are used in furniture but I have no idea how long those will last. Do you plan to connect the two boxes with wires across the board or are you routing them a la boosted board style? My first enclosure had two 10 AWG wires that ran down it and I hated it, so I am just hoping that the ABS is flexible enough to bend as one box instead of two.
Here is the first generation, looking to reprint when I extend my 3d printer to a 300x200mm build size.
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I haven’t decided how I will route the wires between the battery and VESC. I have just made extensions to my box so if I need more space I can just print another one. Also, if the deck bends, the top of the boxes can open a little bit.Note that no components will be fixed to the enclosure, everything is stuck to the deck itself. See below for diagram.
As for material, I have printed it using PETG which is fusing each layer very well and it doesn’t have the shrinkage issue of ABS.
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Yea my deck flexes a bit too and the middle does seem to split if I stand on the middle of it. I have been toying with the idea of making a single enclosure with two halves that are connected with some flexible rubber so that the very middle of the enclosure is flexible yet still watertight.
That’s a nice enclosure! I designed something similar in 123d and am working on a F360 version… This is very well done. How long have you been modeling?
hey @JLabs thanks, I am new to modeling. Have designed only small items so far, but watching a lot of youtube videos and trying a lot of stuff. I guess Fusion 360 really made sense for me so that’s what I’m using. And it’s free 
Still my biggest question is how to attach this to the deck. I think I’ll use 6-32 brass wood inserts. But I need to modify this design so that if I want to add more of the middle sections the holes will continue to line up. But I have printed already what you see there and I’m lazy to do all the calculations for this…but I think I’ll have to do it so that I only have to drill the deck once and at regular spacing…
I used shoulder head cap acres, they are flush with the deck and I have nuts on the other side of the enclosure
Although it is nice to have threaded inserts on one side, from my experience go with the T-nuts like JLab uses, brass sheers really easily and when screwing mine in about half of them snapped and they almost go through the thickness of the board anyways.
thanks @JLabs and @jakobnator. I have no experience with inserts but if they are not enough then the T-nuts are my next choice
Leo
Continued at my build topic http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/untitled-sector-9-faultline-torqueboards-trucks-tb-motor-230kv-torqueboards-v4-mount-6s-vesc/3085
Good job on the 3-D printed enclosure. Doing it in sections so it will flex a little as well as being able to lengthen it in the future is a great idea. You could also add some sort of O-ring or rubber gasket to keep water out. I want to do something very similar for my build. How long does it take you to print the enclosure?
I have been also looking for a solution for fastening enclosure to the bottom of the board. I was thinking of the “DZUS” fastener. They are used for quick panel access in racing applications like motorcycles, airplanes, etc. No tools necessary. Just a spring loaded knob. I provided a link below.
Any chance you could share the file so i can print it? My design looks like crap
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Wow, that would be really nice to pop that baby open quickly.
Hey man, that looks awesome! I was wondering if you could share the CAD files with me. I am currently designing my own enclosure, but I am struggling with the slots in the wall for the various items. I was thinking that I could just look at your files and copy the ports. That is all I want. If you could do that for me, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.