It will be, i think he does all we told wouldnt work, just because we told it.
Maybe you should expand your mind, and look around? Why are you mentioning 10s, my choices are between four and six cell. As I said.
The shaft is 5mm, 15/75 is 5:1 and if you know that PI iis close to three…
You can figure out that it’s in the neighborhood of ~ 75mm tall. Htd 3mm (insert formula for circumference of a circle here)
Running 97mm wheels means anything up to 6:1 is workable.
Learn some mathing, or at least don’t comment wrongly Dont just listen to me listen to people who have been here a while, Chaka said 610kv may be useful.
you do realize that there are basically no pulleys for 3m upwards of 72t? also 4s is ridiculously low - you can obviously make it work if you really want to but why would you? There is no benefit in having a high kv motor setup like the one you are trying to build. Also you still did not address the coasting issue - it will be a pain. But have fun and good luck!
That’s all down to preference and I have no problem with you on that. I do have a problem when are wrong based on the facts.
Sayiing stuff like 10mm motor shafts, and you can’t get 5:1, is plain wrong.
14:72 done. both commonly available.
But go ahead and wish that my build is impossible and “I’ll learn.” When you show, based on facts, you’re the one who needs to learn.
Also, there’s this little thing called 3-D printing, if you want an 85 tooth gear, have somebody print it.
Repeat of the facts, the ESC does not know motor Kv. It only knows erpm. There’s nothing wrong to use gearing if the math works. Htd5 is good stuff, but htd3 is fully tested too.
Guys mke love not war
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Wouldn’t u need at least a 114mm wheel? To fit a pulley 72 tooth
not with HTD3
If u do do it with the low voltage u maybe wouldn’t need an anti spark
But I think with only 14 tooth pulley and especially when paired beside the giant 72 tooth wheel ud have very few teeth engaging. I forget the site that had a pulley calculator but it would show red with too few teeth engaging.
just let him do it - I tried to reason with him and failed.
That 14t pulley in HTD3 is a comically small 13mm in diameter 
http://www.bbman.com/belt-length-calculator/
They don’t recommend having less than 6 teeth in mesh at least for htd5. Not sure about other profiles.
I think it is evident from this thread that known (and popular) motor KV ratings, motor and wheel pulley combinations and voltages are better in terms of performance than others. With this in mind, as there are so many variables (and $) to take into consideration when building an e-board. I would be inclined to take their advice as those people are likely to be more familiar with the technical limitations of the VESC, and the likely combinations of various hardware if you decide to use them in your build.
As the VESC can be customised so much, it is probably a bit of a stretch comparing it with other ESCs unless you are looking at your eboard having a specific purpose.
Perhaps @Sonic1 you might start a build/advice thread for your eboard? How did you want your board to do perform/handle/accelerate? With this in mind, I am sure the forum members will be more than happy to assist. 
No - but that is just me 
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Htd 3 and an idler wheel are tried and true. Boosted with htd3, and the idler has been used in DIY, and Leif board is also the exact same drive.
@Maxid dude, you were already wrong on every factual point. I don’t actually care what you think is comical. But it’s your opinion to keep. But I’m gonna call you out as an jerk for continuing to post your baseless negative crap.
Exactly this.
If a user posts things you don’t understand and don’t have experience with, don’t make shit up.
10mm motor shafts lol. 50kph top speeds No pulleys bigger than 72 300kv can’t work Too many amps* I’m Planning stuff that won’t physically fit
All baseless and wrong. *amp draw is related to battery, rider weight, style of riding, gearing etc. without knowing those you can’t say there’s too many amps drawn. 65a on 4s is 2000w/2.7 HP. Logs show most riders never ever sustain a load like that.
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Bruh can you just get off this thread and go make your own build thread cause your build is irrelevant to this topic. I was really enjoying this thread until you came in and started fighting with people who have a very good reputation on this forum. I not disagreeing with your built but this is not the thread to discuss it on.
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Maybe I enjoy being comically wrong.
If my posts are indeed so baseless a moderator should please tell me and I will stop. Until then I will keep posting my crappy posts.
I can understand your opinion, and my main question for @chaka is still unanswered.
Since it’s impossible to have 100% eff for erpm, why do you calculate based on unweighted rpm and 4.2v? No one want to de sync, but vedder states as high as possible, the closer to 8700rpm the better, more eff, less heat.
Is this related only to the people who travel above 30 miles an hour sustained?
@jrpwit However, I will stick up for myself and the facts. The people who think it’s cool to laugh at somebody when they don’t have the facts on their side don’t get a free pass, no matter how long they’ve been posting. Not calling them on wrongness won’t help the general knowledge base.
hi guys can anyone help me choosing the right esc for the motor i have this is the specs for my motor.
KV=210 Rpm/volt Weight = 618gram Battery = 10 cell LiPo ESC = 70A Power = 2450W (160class 2stroke) Prop = 21x14 - 23x12
if anyone can help me… it would be my plesure. thxx
VESC would be perfect. I doubt very much that you will be able to draw 70A from the motor or the ESC.
i was thinking of using a 125a esc would that have any problem…