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Chinese board repair and upgrade help. So you bought a chinese board huh? Wanna talk about it?

motormount
bms
motor
battery
vesc

#1

I’ve been searching a lot and finding that there are a lot of people buying chinese boards and wanting to upgrade them. I thought we couuld use a thread where poeple shared what parts they used and how they upgraded it. Maybe some of the pro DIY guys can give advice on what parts to buy and where to buy them. Please share any repairs or upgrades you’ve made to a chinese board. And i know people on here hate the chinese clones, but let’s try to make this thread about building and repairing. Not about slamming people for buying a chinese board. Please. Lol


Saw this motor on diyelectricskateboards, wanna try to swap out benchwheel's motors, would it work?
Help me take apart my benchwheelCrap
#2

this guy in the UK has some good video’s for upgrading broken china boards.


#3

Here’s a link to a thread of some upgrades done to another bench wheel. Good stuff guys.


#4

Cheers for linking my thread. Happy with what I’ve done with it.


#5

if you want a step by step VESC upgrade:


#6

Hmm, nobody documented anything in almost 2 years time after this thread got started ?! Anyways, here is my contribution, it started with my friend got one for his son after learning that i got one & he got his even cheaper online for about USD90 delivered ! After close to a month, it broke down, doesn’t power up however when the charger is plug-in, it works fine. This is expected since it was damn cheap, he knows that i previously mod ebikes & asked for my help. i told him most likely its just one of the cell is faulty.

Click here for battery pack repairing


This is how it looks like dismantled, replaced with a recycle Sony US18650GR 2.1AH green cell. it was soldered back to the pack.


A close up shot of the BMS


To identify the faulty cell, measure each of the cell directly with a multimeter, you will have to desoldering the RED circle area then the whole BMS can be move freely. Or at the BMS, measure the RED circle area to B1, B1 to B2 so on & so forth, it should having about 3.7 Volt.


The BMS measures zero volt between B5 & B6 meaning most likely it is dead. i’ve tried a quick reviving technique but still it won’t hold charge. To know more about the quick reviving technique then refer to the below youtube videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbEfhPbqTDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ixajW2KZWc


Found some info on the other side of the battery. its a 2000mAh capacity


This is the latest controller that doesn’t require powering up. Just lay the skateboard on the ground, give it a push & it will auto power up !


Everything installed back to the case.


A close up shot, did you notice whats wrong with it ? The motor won’t move if wired accordingly ! ( Phase wire blue & green )


Everything tidied up & pack back to the case as how it was dismantled.


Yeoh man, you got the seal wrongly installed or is this the correct way, anyways, this is how it was when i dismantled it so i’ll just reinstall it back the same way.


Everything up & running.


it kinda look nicer with the screw being on the outside.


The technique i use is to press & feel the screw on the grip tape sand paper. When you found it, use a pen knife, cut it a little bit where the middle of the screw is. After that, opening it with a Philips screw driver will be alot easier.


HD capture of the controller, it is the same generic controller meaning it can be upgraded to 10S. Can you spot where is 6S & 7S ?

Click here if you can't see it

10S upgrade

WARNING !
Speed kills, this is no joke, Always Wear A Helmet, perhaps it is also a good idea to wear full body Skateboarding Protective Gear & even a full face helmet if you intend to go top speed with it !

Click here for details

Upgraded mine to 10S awhile ago & the acceleration is a huge different ! Got all the parts but took the longest time scouting for the enclosure to house the 3 extra cell.

4x1_holderV2_preview_featured
Found a 4 cell holder but the 3D printing alone costs USD25 !

You’ll fall in love with your toys, you wanna use the top grade parts & it’ll end up costing more than the board itself so don’t fall in love with it. :laughing: At the end, i use cheapo for my 10S upgrade, everything cost about USD25 & that is the same price for just the 3D printing only !

weatherproof%20case


i end up using this cheapo waterproof camping case, cost me about USD1 only !


If you are already using this longboard then there are plenty of spaces for the extra batteries.


You’ll need a total of 10 cells, extra 3 cells as existing is already 7 cells, cost me a total of USD5 for 3 cell. This cheapo 18650 works fine on flat & will starts beeping on hill climbing.


You’ll need a 10S BMS to properly charge all the 10 cells, cost me about USD9.


This cheapo 10S BMS is not able to supply the intended amperage so the P- is not connected,. The cons here is that it won’t cut off when the battery is too low so you gotta make sure not to over discharge it or most of your cells will go bad very soon !


You’ll need a 10S charger, cost me about USD10.


HD photo, you’ll need to remove the zero ohm smd resistor both at 6S or 7S if exists.

Click here if you can't see it


Cheap fake 2800mAh 18650 battery. You can’t go uphill with these.


10S BMS on the left. Wiring is abit messy at the bottom here. :sweat_smile:

Enjoy your upgrades, Think Safety First, Always !

13S upgrade

Click here for details


Why 13S & not 12S you asked, parts required are more or less the same except for the price differences on 12S & 13S is hugh ! 13S BMS are mass produce for ebikes/ escooters thats why they are cheap. Overvolting 36V to 48V on ebikes is an easy job & it works the same for this V1.3 board. And the case fits 6 extra cell just nice. :sunglasses: ( existing 7 + 6 = 13S )


All you have to do is replace the existing 1M ohm smd resistor with the unused 1.2M ohm resistor from besides the label 6S. Soldering & desoldering on smd is quite tricky so refer to the below youtube videos for details or you might spoil your board so be careful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JM4oCpWnjU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW9aEkToX8w&feature=youtu.be&t=90


If you have the latest V3.2 like my friend then you need to add a 470 ohm 1 or 2 watt resistor or higher to lowered down the input voltage to 7815 at the back of the PCB. RED round circle is the built-in 200 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in parallel so total its 50 ohm 1 watt. 7815 has a maximum voltage of 40 Volts, i did measure existing stock 7S battery pack is 29 Volt & the input at 7815 is 27 Volts meaning the on board resistor doesn’t really do its job. You’ll need to trial & error as i didn’t try it on my friend’s board.


Fyi, 13S charger charging voltage is 54.6 Volt so make sure that the 7815 is not over voltage at its input. The easiest way to add the resistor is lift the 7815 input on the right then solder the resistor to it & the other end of the resistor directly to the PCB.

The other upgrades you’ll require is the 13S BMS, 13S Li-ion Charger & 6 additional 18650 for this mod.

Enjoy your upgrades, Think Safety First, Always !

Anatomy of the Chinese ESC Model SZ01_A_V1.3

Click here for details

XL7005A

  1. XL7005A takes the input voltage & regulate it down to 15 Volt


2. 78L05 takes the 15 Volt output from XL7005A & regulate it down to 5 Volt

RT9193
3. DE=A1D aka RT9193 takes the 5 Volt output from 78L05 & regulate it to 3.3 Volt


4. NRF24L01


5. Couldn’t find much info on SPMC65SF112A except it is manufactured by SunPlus. Many ebikes controller seems to use them & it support software tweaking


6. Couldn’t find much info on GPM3248A either except it is manufactured by a subsidiary of SunPlus, General Plus i think


7. FD2103S


8. S68N08R is the mosfet mounted to a stainless steel heat sink, i think ?! How did they do it, i wonder, tried desoldering with hot gun & soldering iron, it just won’t come off. :thinking:
May be its a new manufacturing technique to prevent vibration as normally these mosfets are mounted with screws & nuts. There seems to be copper on the mosfet side of the heat sink but they are not shorted ( common drain ) without mica sheet & bush

Miscellaneous upgrade option

Click here for details


Using a slightly larger case then you can use 10S2P battery pack. On top of that, when you mount it in the front, it will stop speed wobble too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk9H5AB4lM


Or replace existing with 21700 aka Tesla battery, fits 6 cell nicely. Or even 26650 but i have not test whether it will fit as i don’t have any 26650 cell

16S Upgrade
Upgrade mosfet to FDP2532 or IRFB4115

470uF%20100V
Upgrade existing cap to 100 Volt


Then you can use this hover board battery that comes with built-in 16S BMS


Found that there is also a 7815 on the Dual Motor ESC then i guess the mod here can be apply as well but without physically having the board in hand, i just can’t really tell if it will work the same, you’ll have to trial & error with the info here


#7

I would be interested in a guide/thread to turning hubmotors into axial drive motors… :stuck_out_tongue:


#8

You can’t, both are made of a totally different design. This site got good info regarding motor :+1: