dude, wrong topic and also who cares? if you are willing to pay, some people just want to ride and don’t care about $$$
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Well… WIth only speed rings I get this:
With the spacer, wheel, speed ring, I get not enough thread at the end to engage the NyLock:
I am quite sure they are legit TB trucks. 
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ok, must be me, i did it with a flex so 47mm is probably wrong and have more like 42mm, which would fit perfectly.
To be fair I probably would have said the same thing to you…
But also how is this relevant at all {Stay in your LANE}
I use two 2mm shims(fancy washers). One next to the aluminum part of the trucks and one just before the start of the threads.
After 6 hours of playing around I have managed to make everything fit. I think the spacers should be a little bit, like 1mm lower. 
Yes, the tires are backwards. Was more happy with the outcome, so I didn’t even care about the tire orientation.
I had to use ~9mm of total shimming to make things tolerable.
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Wow, that’s alot. I def used just 4mm. I wonder if they have changed the design a bit. Moved the bearings closer together.
From you pic that you posted a day ago, it seems that you are have an extra of 3mm space.
Where’s the belt?
i can confirm that the spacer used have variation of 0.1mm, which is quite alot.
I presume it’s because of dual 6374 motors. Requires quite a wheel offset to make motors fit on the trucks. Atm the distances are gut wrenching. Wheel to mount distance is 1mm. Between motors it’s also 1-2mm.
Belts are not put on yet.
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I use 6374 too, without any issue. With 15mm belt.
Edit: BTW, I think I have those clearances too.
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I think your motor cans are shorter. Looks like TB motors.
Did you had to shave your TB trucks to fit wheels ? About to do a hummie build these 6” wheels and 107mm Superfly wheels as wheel. Just wondering will those be a problem before I get to it
Nope. With TB218 trucks they leave about 3mm extra shaft length when using the standard skateboard washers on each side. So I had to use 2mm shims on both sides. Does that answer your question?
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The bearings have definitely freed up after riding about 20 miles. Next up is figuring out the watt-hour/km for my setup. I can approximate based on the battery capacity and battery voltage but will wait for my metr pro to log the data.
BTW, the video taken on phone is 8.9 sec long https://gph.is/2CABX41
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Good to know, can’t wait till you have Wh readings. I am stressing I might not get the range I anticipate (at least 30km)… I am putting a 12S6P Samsung 30Q battery into this tank, but still…
It will be around 20 to 30Wh/km - so with a 12S6P of 30Q you can estimate a conservative 26km
For the approximate values, here’s the analysis. I have 10S4P made of Samsung 25R battery, so 10Ah. I charge my battery to 4.1 volts. After riding 4.4 miles(~7km) my voltage reading is at 3.8 volts. i.e approximately 112Wh(based on discharge capacity plots). So that gives 16Wh/km
EDIT: but apparently that’s too optimistic based on what @Maxid said. I weight 165lb(~75kg) so that along with decent roads might have tipped the scale. But likely, it’s the approximate analysis.
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Aw man. Shoulda went with a 8p then. x)
Well I will see how it is and how comfy the ride feels, maybe I will switch to urethane, I don’t know just yet, everything is in the build phase still…
Once you go penumatics you won’t go back - there is no point in urethane on an esk8. Have you seen a car with a urethane wheel? 
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Hold my beer. 
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