Original ones are 18.11mm and this makes rim sides float above each other, so tightening pushes the bearing centers out, tightening to the axles will make the situation even worse.
This is how it is before taking a bit off:
The gap is what makes improperly installed spacer lock the bearings A LOT. Especially with load the bearings already get from the pressing into the seat.
You want to reduce the length to ~17.90mm. This will make sure the spacer still contacts the bearings, yet it doesnāt apply too much load when the rim is assembled and axle is tightened.
No more gap and the bearings spin after assembly. Spacer works and you can spin one bearing to make other spin.
EDIT: this is individual to each person. If you try to push the bearings completely to the seat, then the spacers will become 17mm even. Make sure you check your situation and take off some aluminum gradually.
Quick removal of the tyre, only works with 3D printed pulley for now.
Get 3 M6x50mm screws and 3 M6 NyLock nuts.
Screw the pulley with spacer in the wheel side with the threads. Hand tighten(approx 15Nm) them so they sit flush.
Put on the other side of the rim after the tire, put on the nuts, tighten them with a 10mm socket wrench to be flush.
Thatās all! In a case of a flat, you will only need to unscrew the bolt that holds the wheel in place, those 3 nuts and off goes the tyre! No need to remove the belt/pulley.
Nice! The easy removal option is sweet. I am going to do it after the first tire change. It can easily be done for the versa pulley users too. Just have to follow the same principle.
Itās not really the point of security. Bearings have different loads and tolerances. Not saying I wonāt try to get bearings on the cheaper side, but I think seating into aluminum will require bearings which have better load bearing and tolerances.
Even normal PU wheel bearings differ a lot. I had simple 608 bearings (8ā¬ for 8) that gave up on me kind of fast, they started wobbling and locking up. Then I got 608 Zealous bearings (20ā¬ for 8) with integrated spacers and never saw any more issues.
I have industrial bearings with ceramic balls and i have never serviced them in 1 year, i use grease not oil.
I donāt believe all the hype about these expensive bearings.
Well I am not talking about super expensive bearings. I am just saying that I felt night and day difference with bearings that cost 1ā¬ vs ones that cost 2.50ā¬ per unit.
finally back after being on the road the last couple weeksā¦ went out for a ride and it says i did 8miā¦ kinda windy so I assume some resistance thereā¦ but went from 99% to 20% riding medium hard on a 12s4p 30Qā¦ top speed of 32 supposedlyā¦
so not badā¦ i get about 15mi riding hard on my superflysā¦so not to bad so farā¦ front wheel(s) has a slight in balance at higher speedā¦ not sure what to do about it yetā¦ new board being built very soon =)
What kind of motor set up are you using? Iām currently building a 10s 5p pack with a single motor and the 6x2 wheels and would like to know an estimate on the range I could get.
Iāve read to use somewhere around 16 wh/km on the calculator for use with mountain board tires, but doing so should put you at 20 ish miles. If you made it to 8mi with 20%,so lets say 10 miles that would mean 32wh/km. Would you say that 32wh/km is more realistic and thats what I should use to calculate the range with these tires?
i havent gotten any more ride video YET but Ive really been enjoying these the last few days riding around manhattanā¦ have had a good few shots up 6th ave and down 7th hitting a lot of green lights and keeping pace with the cars, and not having to worry about certain road imperfectionsā¦ my 107s handle it quite well but I less worried about carving around imperfections now =)