I mean, not a Jedi. I don’t feel the force you used. 
Can’t see scuff marks either.
Also it could be just empty banter(about temperatures, adhesion, etc), because your thermistor COULD BE just different than mine and not calibrated. It is not known until you use a thermal camera to test if 242’C actually is 242’C.
The part in the vice above I obviously put the vice grips into the circular part and levered, it did not split along the print lines
I have done pid tuning of course, temp readings are accurate
I use Surreal PETG, it is about €20 per kg
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B53JLZD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
* Printing temperature around 230 - 260°C
Enough of banter, because if it has lower G addition, it will bond better but have lower TG.
Returning on topic, 2 of my wheels have arrived to my country! Other two are “somewhere”… Split packaging.
Where are you getting your information on the glycol % in Surreal filament? genuinely interested, can you link me that?
I am not, that’s why I stated:
Need to look into their website into material spec sheet for that information.
Still, I find it kind of time wasting right now, because PETG WILL be strong. Stronger than ABS even. If it works, it works. I just had to push the maximum out of my setup because of real life and loaded prototypes I had to make.
If those temps work for your needs and loads, I see no problem. My experience might cloud the opinion on these “low” temp numbers, but that’s just how my experience is.
I’m just trying to help others who wanna print pullies without any disinformation
When banter turns into flame. What a time to be alive.
I just stated my experience, that’s all. I am talking about maximum performance of the filament.
Followed by explanations why. emphasis on I, my
Emphasis those temperatures
No need to be sore. All information I had in mind comes from experience, it is not the perfect guidelines, just showing what this filament can do at it’s peak.
That’s unfortunate that we don’t agree and you have kind of begrudgingly allowed my opinion to continue to breath.
I’m not offended that any attempt to show you that my results are bang-on have been met with scurrilous questioning of the techniques I used to test
It’s just maybe your pillar of expertise is not as high as you may assume in spite of whatever experience you have, I’m sorry you don’t like having it questioned, that is not a sign of experience and maturity in what you think you know.
Ps. Using shit €10 filament is not a good baseline whatsoever for sharing, if it works for you fine but I wouldn’t offer it as a community baseline.
I’m really not butt-hurt although you did interrupt my morning shit ;p
Seems to be the after-mexican-food shit, because you are burning up, man.
I legitimately questioned at all points because I am interested, it’s my source of income. I NEED to make the prints top-strength and I constantly learn new things.
No need to be so hard-headed and break stuff with a vice grip, just print a simple 6mm cylinder to keep the pollution low and that’s it, see how it holds up. If you get sufficient strength in that cross cut, it’s fine by me, fine by you, fine by everyone. No need to get political about this.
Not everybody lives in the exact same ambient temperatures, not everyone has exactly the same calibrated printers, not everyone has the exact same filament. Maybe they have AC running in the same room, maybe they’re in Siberia and printing at -10’C for the hell I know why, maybe they live in the desert and they can print at 220’C.
Everything in 3D printing and tuning is up to individual machines, filaments, etc.
Yes, making 10€ filament print top-notch parts takes a bit of experience, don’t you think? Before I was using 40€ rolls from either ColorFabb or Prusa, but further testing proved that even 10€ filament can do exactly the same. Been using the same filament for over two years now.
I just told my story, wondered how you get the strengths you imply and now you flame on like the turd you just made?
I don’t see the point tbh.
Grind the gears all you want.
@amazingdave Well to be honest it started with advice regarding print settings and printer upgrades. Printing is essentially a part of this topic.
Shitstorm began after the fire nation attacked. People nowadays prefer to not 1v1 in private chat if they have some beef against others, publicity is all we need. 
Thank you for your nice experience! I wont take all Information as is but i find them very helpfull!!
Normaly i used Standard prusa settings and printed my stuff in petg at 230. 
so the first thing i will do is to test a bit with the temperatures. It makes totally sense that we will get more strength by increasing the print temperature (and layer height, Nigger nozzle).
So the Information are not the only truth around here but they are helpfull to the community imho
If you have a genuine prusa with a brass nozzle, calibrated extruder (using PLA, lower push force, better flow), I would recommend starting at:
First Layer Bed: 90’C First Layer Temp: 250’C Further Bed: 90’C Further Layers: 255’C - play around with this, depends on ambient temps and if you have silicone sock, if you don’t, keep at the higher side.
Fan at automatic 30-50% if MK2S/MK2.5(12V fan), constant 50% if MK3(5V fan).
If you have a steel nozzle and have no silicone sock, you might need to increase the temperature from 250’C up to 5 degrees, so you could even reach 260’C. With sock keep it at 255’C as it will not radiate much heat.
Your retractions might need to go to 1mm. Leave Lift-Z as is.
I have tried printing upwards to 275’C but it gave me diminishing returns around 265’C using a steel nozzle with a sock. Small details became overcooked.
Thank you for the info. Currently printing with brass nozzle at 247 without problems 
I would confirm the max PSI on those.
the 6x2 you linked doesn’t seem to say anywhere what the max PSI is but the 6x1.5 says 30PSI max which is a bit low as you will lose a lot of range.
Some time into the new year I’m gonna get some Haggyboard tyres as apparently they fit onto the Aliexpress hubs. Because they have a smaller contact patch there should be less rolling resistance
85 psi should also increase the efficiency.
Anybody investigated the potential to make them inflatable tubeless? With a rim seal, tubeless valve and a sealant? But perhaps aliexpress tires will have a lot of micropunctures/splits already… and just maybe the rim profile is already doomed for not being able to do that…
I am Not Sure but i think you need a rim with a lip and the tire needs one as Well to rly Press into and create a seal.
Doesn’t the split wheel present a sealing nightmare? You’d need an o ring seal and groove to allow for dismantling…
