You can print PETG just about with a stock Tarantula, keep it at 240c and the Bowden tube will be alright, buy quality filament, no enclosure needed
I mean, you could. But I wouldnât trust my life on PETG being printed at 240âC. If itâs winter and room is colder, layer adhesion will be below tolerable, hell, even layer splitting can appear.
I am talking about real PETG, not PET. That stuff(PETG) is recommended to print at 250âC+. I got best results at 255âC, but it also depends on your hotend, thermistor, nozzle, speed, either you use a silicone sock for the heater block, active cooling is through the roof, etc.
Source: been printing prototypes for companies for well over a few years now.
Example prints done using converted anycubic with PETG at 255âC:
(Donât mind the pet hair, I am a Disney princess xD)
Stringing? Nah.
All this sounds way too complicated for me, I think Iâll just stick with ABS for now
ABS is way more complicated. Way more. PETG is the friendliest filament you can print. Itâs just fiddly to get right. Unlike ABS that is outright a spawn from hell.
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I wouldnât even know where to begin when it comes to having the right hotend and all that jazz. Still very much new to the 3D realm
Feel free to ask in PM if you want. There are direct extruder/full metal conversions for the ender. I have a colleague who bought it. Seems to have a bit of specific issues to the roller design, like flat rollers and vibrations, but he is getting there.
Also printing ABS below 255âC sounds bad to me too⌠Unless you acetone vapor treat it afterwards to bind the model as much as you can. 
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Currently printing it at 240c, they arenât the best results but overall its better than nothing. Will experiment with some slightly higher temps and see what happens
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Please do not raise your temperature above 240âC with your default setup. PTFE(bowden) charring smells bad and is extremely toxic. 
Recommendations for where my first upgrades should be going?
I would go for the full metal hotend or even titan aero extruder system if you have the bucks and are not afraid to get your hands/mind dirty with custom firmware. Also grabbing a BLTouch would help immensely(who doesnât love automatic bed leveling?). Also means more firmware. All parts can be purchased as either clones(the titan aero, 3DTouch) or legit(ender3 full metal hotend) from AliExpress or related stores.
I will ask my colleague which full metal hotend he got later.
Iâd still rather go for a direct approach as full metal has another issue, it might clog like hell during retractions. With bowden you have your tube inserted almost to the opening of the nozzle, this allows you to do ridiculous retractions like 5-10mm without problems. This also means if you go above the melting/charring point of the tube, you will get some nasty particles aroundâŚ
With full metal it(the bowden tube) ends at the âthroatâ(the heatbreak) that connects the hot part with your nozzle to the heatsink, keeping the incoming plastic sturdy enough, to be melted later. This introduces a small gap between the tube and the metal, which might end up with swelling of the filament and eventual jam when doing retractions >2mm.
Clarification: direct uses full metal, but not that much retraction, like up to 1mm
I mean this could be useful information for everyone, but I donât know. If it doesnât hurt anyones eyes, I will continue to help/explain here.
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I have printed in PETG yes PETG many times successfully at 238-242 without an all metal hotend on multiple printers. The filament is all important, the room temp not so much as it doesnât warp like ABS, ABS+ is a little better in that regard
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Charing occurs above 244c but yes any inaccuracies of the thermistor and it will start to degrade, I use cornacopia knock-off from AliExpress with good results & itâs cheap
Best to stay out of the room and vent it afterwards if worried
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I did not say you couldnât. I am also saying itâs superior to ABS. Have you tested the layer adhesion with a tension, torsion, impact testing equipment? Youâd be surprised what kind of performance PETG gains at those temperatures.
Hell, Iâve been riding PRINTED wheels for 300+ kilometers. 20% infill, PETG.
I am just talking from experience. 255âC prints is minimum strength I can accept by now.
Oh yeah, the motor mount is printed too⌠From PETG. 
And this is how it looked like after I replaced the mount and the motor(5045 with 100 kilos is a no-no). Wheels still printed and heavily used:
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I got a all metal hotend for $9 or so awhile ago, but have to replace it. I have been printing Sunlu PETG(from amazon) at 245C, seems good so far, but if 255 given better performance then why not. What brand filament do you use?
I am amazed that the mounts and wheels are holding up.
I am using the cheapest, but for sure âpureâ PETG from Poland âDevilDesignâ for 10âŹ/kilo. People say itâs complete garbage. I say that people who say that are complete garbage and canât dial their settings. (this is a joke, pls no offenses)
This is how a 6mm by 50mm pillar should look after breaking:
If it breaks at layer lines or you see perimeter/infill spacing inside, itâs not bonded properly.
THIS is what you want. Complete adhesion. Solid.
This is how ABS cylinder should look like for giggles:
B E N D Y B O Y E
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Could you Print wheels from Pla If settings are richtig?
No, you shouldnât. Imagine the friction and centripetal forces you will get. It will MELT your rims faster than you can jump off your board at the âoh FUCK!â moment.
Glass transition(softening) temperature of PLA is ~60âC, PETG ~90âC depending on purity and additions, ABS ~105âC, etc.
My wheels used PETG for the rims and TPU(Thermo Plastic Urethane) for the tires.
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[quote=âmurloc992, post:377, topic:65559â] Have you tested the layer adhesion with a tension, torsion, impact testing equipment? [/quote] No I do not have access to that type of equipment, just real world testing and my results are the same with pullies but with lower printing temps 242c and 25% iirc
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I am glad it is, pulleys get surface load though, so thereâs not much trouble the teeth will wear out fast or break.
I am just stating the best strength you can get if you really want the most of your filament. 242âC in a cold environment would make my skin go full on goosebumps if I had to use it in a loaded/critical situation, it just doesnât adhere muchâŚ
For comparison, I could break the 6mm cylinder printed at 240âC with my hands before.
Later at 248âC I had to use pliers, then at 255âC equipment with a vice grip, because I couldnât make it bend much even using two pairs of pliers and my table as support edge.
Itâs all up to the needs of an individual.
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